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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is very possibly the wine of the vintage. Vertical and explosive, the 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and dynamic energy to burn. The 2021 is a heady, racy wine that captivates all the senses. Tobacco, mocha, cedar, leather, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and plum saturate the palate in a wine that…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was one of the best wines of the vintage when I tasted from barrel. This contains 49% whole-bunch (a slightly higher figure than Guillaume Pouthier gave me during en primeur). The barrel-aging has what Pouthier called a “white toasting”, very light, so that you don’t smell the oak (70% new)….

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion includes 45% whole bunch, the same as the previous vintage with 70% new oak, 20% in new 1800-litre foudres and some in amphora. Interestingly, the whole bunch contribution is less evident here compared to the Le C des Carmes, more assimilated with touches of flint and graphite infusing the mineral-rich…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Technical Director Olivier Pouthier crafted one of the wines of the vintage at Les Carmes Haut-Brion. The 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and stunning persistence. Bright red-fleshed fruit, blood orange, mint, dried flowers and exotic spice caress the senses as the 2021 shows off its sheer allure. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru is well defined on the nose, fresh and taut, with an abiding sense of purity and delineation. Joyous aromatics! The palate is crisp on the entry and well balanced, although this is the one Folatières where I find the oak impedes and rather occludes the terroir, rendering it…