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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2006 Beychevelle is a solid effort in a difficult vintage, and perhaps this bottle has the edge on the one poured blind six months earlier. There are blackberry, briar and loam traces on the nose, with light cassis notes, again lending it a Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit,…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Dark red-ruby. Rather open-knit, subdued aromas of strawberry and minerals. Clean, fresh and juicy, with bright if not especially concentrated flavors of red berries, spring flowers and fresh citrus fruits. Clean and vibrant on the moderately long finish, but could use a little more density and flesh.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru contains fruit from plots of replanted vines for the first time this year, and also 80% whole bunches. Bertrand de Villaine told me that the blending was done a little later than their other crus. Matured in 100% new oak, it has an attractive bouquet of brambly red fruit, blueberry…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a detailed bouquet of dark cherries, blueberry and pressed iris, an undertow of sea spray and petrichor emerging with time. Less floral than previous vintages, it is nevertheless extremely well focused. The palate is medium-bodied and you are immediately struck by the harmony of this wine. Elegant and discreetly…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(72.5% cabernet sauvignon, 25.5% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 87 IPT, 14.3% alcohol, 40% of total production) Deep, almost opaque glass-staining ruby. Clove, cedar and herb notes on the nose, with black fruit aromas lurking underneath. Clean and fresh but presently dominated by oak, with black fruit and cedar flavors currently held in check. The…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Forts de Latour puts the Carruades de Lafite in the shade with its fabulous and disarmingly pure black fruit laced with tobacco and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and an unerring and inspiring sense of symmetry towards the finish. This is a Deuxième Vin…