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Cellar Favorites: Laville Haut-Brion (Jul 2018)

The 2008 Laville Haut-Brion was the final vintage produced under this label. Despite that, like every other vintage, the 2008 remains stubborn and backward on the nose before deigning us with Conference pear, smoke and light wet wool scents, not unlike a Chenin Blanc! The palate is well balanced, with fine density, an undercurrent of…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(79% semillon and 21% sauvignon blanc) Light straw-green. Initially reticent nose needs coaxing to reveal aromas of orange blossom, lemon and minerals. Enters the mouth bright and fresh, with citrus and mineral flavors of sneaky concentration, but comes across as a rather linear, austere Laville. Harmonious acidity extends the flavors on the back end, but…

Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being (Apr 2012)

The 2008 Barolo is a beautiful wine. Super expressive, knock-out aromatics lead to expressive layers of fruit. The 2008 shows gorgeous richness and depth within the context of the year. Tar, smoke, licorice and crushed rocks wrap around the finish. This is a striking, elegant Barolo from Aldo Conterno.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good deep red with ruby highlights. Dark fruits, violet and licorice pastille on the nose and palate. Juicy and energetic but a bit youthfully tough today. Strong acidity is currently suppressing the wine’s texture. This wine is made from 20- to 35-year-old vines spread throughout the large Bussia area. Since 2004, 20% of this wine…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1997 Yquem comes from a season that witnessed the earliest-ever flowering (5 May) and an early picking that began on 4 September, though botrytis failed to develop, necessitating seven tries through the vineyard over 32 days of picking that lasted until 4 November. One aspect to note is how deep in colour this is…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Inky purple. Explosive black and blue fruit preserves, incense and vanilla on the nose, plus suggestions of smoky minerals, licorice and candied violet. Deeply concentrated and seamless, offering appealingly sweet blueberry, mocha and floral pastille flavors that are sharpened and lifted by juicy acidity and a jolt of peppery spices. Finishes with strong thrust and…