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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Deep aromas of mirabelle, spices and iodiney minerality. The fattest and largest of these ’17s, both more tactile and sweeter than the Cabotte. Much easier to taste today as well, owing to its ripe yellow fruit flavors. But this also shows more energy than the Cabotte and finishes with a serious tannic spine and the…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale straw-yellow. Very reticent scents of peach, pear and spearmint are less forthcoming than those of the Chevalier-Montrachet bottlings. Fat, saline and slightly disjointed in the early going; in a very rich but adamantly dry style. Shows full ripeness supported by penetrating acidity but this infant is not yet expressive or particularly complex. Strong minerality…

2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)

(aging in two-thirds new oak): Dark red. Black fruits, flowers, minerals and licorice on the vibrant nose, plus a whiff of truffle; I would have picked this blind as a Cote de Nuits wine. Dense, sappy and sweet but with a light touch and excellent definition thanks to its firm underlying minerality. At once delicate…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Bright, saturated ruby-red. Pungent minerals, licorice and cocoa powder on the nose. Lush and seamless but with extremely primary flavors of crushed berries, bitter chocolate, minerals and leather. Wonderfully rich but at the same time precise and vibrant. Finishes with a palate-staining whiplash of dark berry flavor. Tannins are quite fine, but this very tight,…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(bottled in August):Bright medium red. Reticent raspberry and menthol aromas are complicated by smoky minerality. Very dry and a bit awkward four months after the bottling, showing a solid underpinning of minerality but not quite the flesh to buffer its slightly edgy acids and tannins. This will need time to harmonize and expand in bottle,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru is one of the lowest-producing vineyards, yielding just 20hl/ha due to the age of the vines and shallow soils. The very pure bouquet features ebullient red cherry and raspberry fruit and fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, and quite succulent, with a sorbet-like richness…