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Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Saturated ruby-red. Flamboyant, upfront aromas of black- and redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, chocolate, mocha and violet pastille. Big, rich, sweet and deep, with superripe, distinctly Mediterranean flavors of blueberry, strawberry and chocolate, kept fresh by sound acidity. Conveys an impression of powerful extract. Finishes with superb, noble tannins and mounting flavors of red…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2001 Ornellaia (magnum) offers up violets, black cherries, minerals and earthiness in a big, structured style. The wine’s sheer intensity and thrust are nothing short of remarkable. Ideally, readers will give the 2001 another few years in bottle; as it is truly majestic stuff but will require patience. The 2001 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Medium ruby. Sappy raspberry, game and spices on the nose. A wine of great verve and sweetness; lush and chewy but also urgent and sharply delineated. Bracing acids give this dense wine buns of steel. Wonderful expanding finish features strong but thoroughly ripe tannins. An outstanding vintage for this legendary wine.

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 1992 is an attractive, early Masseto from a challenging year that benefits from the magnum format. There is good depth for a wine of its age, if not quite the finesse the estate would find later. Sweet red cherry, red plum, raspberry and floral notes give the 1992 a real feeling of brightness that…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Moderately saturated ruby-red. More merlot-dominated aromas of raspberry, plum, espresso, mocha and game. Silky, lush and thick, with compelling flavors of boysenberry, bitter cherry and dark chocolate. Complex, smoky, lively wine, finishing with strong torrefaction notes and lovely subtle persistence. The merlot component here goes through…