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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pichon-Lalande has a rather musky bouquet at first, juniper and mint infusing the black fruit, not quite translating the essence of Pauillac as well as others, though still attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and silky smooth. There is a veneer of high quality oak here, quite plush on the…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

As it always is, the 2012 Pichon Lalande is a wine of pure and total seduction. The 2012 is neither the biggest nor most complex Pichon Lalande, but it is among the most pleasurable wine in this tasting, especially for near and medium-term drinking. Silky and medium in body, with lovely brightness, the 2012 has…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Good dark red. Dark plum, raspberry, graphite and violet on the nose. Smooth, fine-grained and sweet, with a floral quality to the plummy fruit. Has the middle to support its tannins and acids, and finishes with good length. Despite the difficult vintage, this struck me as a slightly more concentrated Pichon than the 2011. Talented…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A big, powerful wine, the 2012 Haut-Brion possesses stunning richness and intensity, with all of the depth that is lacking in so many other wines in this vintage. Not here. The 2012 possesses remarkable depth and tons of raw, animal power that is going to require considerable time in bottle to soften. Readers should be…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65.5% merlot, 32.5% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc; 44 h/h): Deep ruby-red. Compelling perfume of dark berries, red cherry, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Highly concentrated and penetrating, with superb sappiness to the rich flavors of raspberry, brown spices, cocoa powder and smoky black pepper. This big, rich wine displays outstanding spine and grip…