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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 58/42 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.9% alcohol) Ruby red. Perfumed aromas of currant, spices and flowers show an intriguing candied quality. Light and lively on the palate, with suave, peppery dark berry and mineral flavors lifted by a spicy element on the back. Finishes long and pure, with noteworthy inner-mouth energy and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a classic, reserved but well-defined bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar, light tobacco and violet scents, gradually gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a silky texture, not quite as complex as 2011 but well balanced. The acidity is nicely judged. There is more red fruit towards…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a very fine bouquet with tightly packed blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, melted tar and pencil shavings, leaning a little towards Saint-Julien in style (like the Giscours.) The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, gorgeous red berry fruit laced with all spice and cumin, gently fanning out towards the grippy but…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Lively aromas and flavors of boysenberry, violet, chocolate and spicy oak. Juicy, sweet and elegant, with sound acidity and a firm spine of tannins keeping the wine’s fruit under wraps now. Not an opulent style for the vintage; in fact, this solidly structured Margaux is tough going today. Finishes chewy and chocolatey, with…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2019 Haut-Batailley has a very attractive, wonderfully delineated bouquet, with blood orange tincturing the vibrant black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly peppery in style with real depth and longevity on the finish. This is excellent and might well represent the best vintage under “new management.”

Vinous Table: Chez Bruce, London, UK (Aug 2019)

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades,…