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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Vivid deep ruby. Knockout fruity nose offers blackcurrant, strawberry, rosemary, truffle and a stony note. Then very closed in the middle, with cabernet sauvignon-dominated flavors of cassis, cigar box, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and deep, with massive but smooth tannins and a lingering note of violet. This will need plenty of time in the…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a powerful bouquet with ample blackberry, hoisin, crushed stone and cedar aromas, quite warm and welcoming but retaining satisfying delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but it seems to tighten towards the fresh and persistent finish. Impressive but unequivocally not the best example. 14.3%…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(46% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc; a 57% selection; 14.3% alcohol) Saturated bright ruby. The deep, brooding nose is quite marked by the cabernet franc presence, opening slowly with air to offer sexy, soil-driven aromas of violet, raspberry, mocha, minerals and sweet spices. Then rich and sweet in the mouth but with…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good dark red. Perfumed, ineffable aromas of currant, cherry skin, floral oils and incense. Then juicy and penetrating on the palate, with excellent concentration and thrust to the soil-inflected flavors of currant, minerals and iron. Very suave, pure wine with the structure to age.