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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Moderately saturated medium red. Pungent aromas of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, spices, rose petal, mocha and crushed stone; this Pommard has Chambolle-like vibrancy. Wonderfully silky and suave on the palate, with dark cherry, chocolate and dried rose flavors lifted by chalky energy. Offers a compelling combination of sweet and saline elements and finishes with refined tannins…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(almost finished with its sugar fermentation; Saouma told me that this wine still had 15 grams of residual sugar during the 2017 harvest): Bright but slightly cloudy yellow. Slightly oxidative on the nose, as it’s still working. Then shockingly ripe and fresh on the palate, with a touch of sweetness virtually neutralized by penetrating appley…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright light yellow. Aromas of peach, fresh apricot and medicinal herbs show a sweet-sour quality that reminded me of some Chinese dishes. Very pure, juicy and penetrating; doesn’t show the body, density or ripeness of the Charmes but this is a compellingly energetic, intense Gouttes d’Or with sneaky power. Finishes very long and suave, with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated dark red. Deep, musky aromas of dark raspberry, mocha, licorice and minerals, with a chocolatey hint of the vintage’s ripeness. Utterly silky and aristocratic, conveying an almost peppery coolness and superb energy to its flavors of dark berries, soil and saline minerality; extended aeration brought notes of redcurrant and tobacco. This classically dry wine…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated dark red. Deep, musky aromas of dark raspberry, mocha, licorice and minerals, with a chocolatey hint of the vintage’s ripeness. Utterly silky and aristocratic, conveying an almost peppery coolness and superb energy to its flavors of dark berries, soil and saline minerality; extended aeration brought notes of redcurrant and tobacco. This classically dry wine…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Musky, sulfidey aromas of peaty Islay Scotch and smoky minerality. Fat, large-scaled, pliant and mouthfilling, with the peaty quality carrying through on the palate. As big as this wine is, it still manages to open out further and gain in thickness on the back end. The finish is plush, satisfying and very long, with just…