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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very pale rose-gold color. Singular nose hints at wild strawberry, raspberry and toast, along with exotic hints of mango and pineapple. Very dry and elegant, but with extraordinary intensity of flavor and incipient creaminess. An extremely young wine with the material and structure to develop for another 15 years or more. A great rose.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Dark red. Pungent floral aromas along with suggestions of bitter cherry, chocolate, saddle leather and dried thyme on the nose. A medium-bodied, moderately concentrated Grange with a juicy quality, displaying sappy but dry flavors of cherry, red plum, anise and lavender. The finish begins plump and lingers impressively, but the tannins are slightly dry.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle is going through a challenging time. Mid-weight structure and harsh, angular tannins are penalizing. Dark cherry, graphite, dried herb and coffee struggle to emerge, but the 2018 never really fills out.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle has an initially perplexing nose, very outgoing with predominantly red berry fruit that feels too oaky. Then it coalesces with aeration, though there is quite a lot of reduction in evidence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and, again, mainly red fruit plus a touch of sea salt. Yet it lacks…