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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has a pretty bouquet, not intense but well-defined, featuring blackberry, cedar and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and quite saline in the mouth, with grippy tannins, good body and just a slight austerity on the finish. Not bad at all, though there is a considerable gap between…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is still tight-lipped on the nose despite rigorous coaxing, notes of graphite percolating through the black fruit. I feel that in another vintage it would give me more. The palate is medium-bodied and more expressive than the aromatics at the moment, quite concentrated in terms of its black fruit,…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has developed into an elegant, polished Pauillac. Silky, aromatic and racy, the 2021 is seriously impressive. Graphite, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice meld into a core of dark blue/purplish fruit. In some recent years, the Réserve has been a big wine, maybe too big. In 2021, it’s a wine…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…