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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Subdued but classy new-oaky nose hints at flowers, chocolate, and cinnamon. A spicy, beautifully delineated wine of great class and hidden depths. Very subtle, long aftertaste. A crowd-pleaser. The ’90 is more typical for this château than the fatter but more alcoholic and soft ’89.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Petit Mouton clearly retains its bold bouquet of bravura scents of blackberry, blood orange, and touches of cassis and violet petals, the 50% new oak seamlessly integrated over 18 months. The palate is silky-smooth on the entry, deep and displaying fine grip. This is definitely one of the most seductive Le Petit…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Petit-Mouton is flat-out gorgeous. The energy, tension and delineation here are all first class. There is no doubt in my mind that in a previous era, this could have been a First Growth wine. Maybe not in a truly great vintage, but certainly in anything less than that. Bright red-toned fruit, rose…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Brilliant ruby. Highly perfumed, spice- and mineral-accented aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, incense and potpourri, along with hints of smoked meat and exotic spices. Shows superb clarity to the alluringly sweet boysenberry, cherry and candied licorice flavors, which deftly blend concentration and vivacity. Sappy, smooth and seamless in style, finishing with powerful, mineral-driven…