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The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(two-thirds destemmed; made from vines between 20 and 50 years of age): Bright medium red. Tight, youthfully medicinal nose offers scents of black cherry, rose petal, pepper and herbs. Juicy and imploded; less generous today than the village Chambolle or Morey, showing limited early sweetness. Finishes firm but not overly tannic, with a lightly saline…

Germany 2003: Extreme Riesling (Jan 2005)

(for 375 ml.) Blackcurrant, juniper and sloe berry aromas. Honeyed and rich as well as berry-flavored and shot through with salty minerality. Like a berry-studded, rich vanilla custard one moment and a wet stone mineral bath the next. Soothingly slippery, glyceral-rich texture. Nearly endless billowing length here. 2 stars.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

(a blend of garnacha, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and carinena) Opaque violet. A head-spinning bouquet of ripe blackcurrant, cherry liqueur, cola, candied plum, mineral and floral scents, along with a suave undercurrent of spicy oak. Deeply concentrated dark berry and cherry preserve flavors are impressively powerful and ripe, but improbably fresh too. Chewy tannins build on…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full red-ruby. Expressive, vinous aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, leather and smoke. Sweet, supple and fat with fruit; dark and red berries are complemented but not overshadowed by hints of leather and smoked meat. This plump and satisfying wine has just enough acidity to maintain its shape. Finishes with sweet, surprisingly supple tannins and noteworthy persistence….

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha): Vivid ruby-red. Suave, spicy red fruit preserve and potpourri scents are complicated by notes of vanilla, licorice and mocha. Sappy, focused and energetic, offering sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors that are given lift by juicy acidity. Impressively pure and penetrating on the finish, which leaves floral pastille and smoky mineral…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…