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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Château de Valois has a bold, quite menthol-tinged bouquet that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well-balanced, with grippy, tarry black fruit, and nicely proportioned. There’s just the right amount of dryness on the finish to tempt you back.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated violet color. Smoke- and mineral-accented cherry and blackberry scents, along with exotic spice, violet and cracked pepper flourishes. Supple and expansive on the palate, offering appealingly sweet dark berry, kirsch and floral pastille flavors that are brightened by a spicy overtone. The spicy note carries through a long, smoky finish that shows fine clarity…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Clocher has a very pure and seductive bouquet of that blackberry and raspberry fruit that I picked out from barrel, but now with more floral elements: iris and touches of violet. The oak here is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with layers of blackberry and bilberry. This has a fine…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Clocher is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel. Inky, layered and exquisitely beautiful, the 2018 balances fruit richness with a level of detail that hasn't always been present. Crème de cassis, mocha, lavender, mint and new oak fill out the layers as this ample, inviting Pomerol shows…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 d’Angludet has a very open, fleshy, red berry nose that is missing some complexity and feels a little monochromatic compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, fleshy but undemanding for a Margaux. This showed much better 12 months ago, so I will leave a question mark instead of a…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Gloria has turned out beautifully. Medium in body, with terrific balance and tons of class, Gloria will especially appeal to readers in search of a wine that is not super-exuberant, as so many 2018s are. Bright floral notes, blood orange and red berry fruit all run through this wonderfully expressive Saint-Julien. Give the…