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The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(60% vendange entier; recently completed its malo): Bright, dark red. Expressive, distinctly red aromas of redcurrant, iron, minerals and vanillin oak, complicated by smoky underbrush. Smooth and sweet in the mouth, even creamy, with the deep red fruit flavors suggesting a leisurely ripening process. Substantial ripe tannins arrive late and coat the sides of the…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is blossoming into a gorgeous wine. It has an attractive, pure and winsome bouquet with dark berry fruit, crushed stone and undergrowth aromas supremely well bound together by the oak. So precise and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and precise with just the right amount of…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(100% vendange entier): Very deep red with ruby tones. Slightly high-toned, chocolatey-ripe aromas of black raspberry, menthol and minerals. Fat and sweet but youthfully closed; doesn’t offer quite the lift of the Reignots today but this is a remarkably full, large-scaled wine for the year. A bit darker and earthier in its fruit character. Sweetness…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village had been racked three weeks earlier. I tasted from a used barrel, but the final blend will include 20% new wood. The perfumed nose, mainly of black fruit here, reveals a touch of pressed iris that is nicely defined. The palate is replete with crunchy black fruit and a hint of…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(from 11 parcels of vines, the youngest 30 years of age; the yield here was much lower than for the Nuits-Saint-Georges owing to a lot of millerandage, noted van Canneyt): Bright, dark red. Lovely lift and ripeness to the aromas of raspberry and smoky minerality. At once creamy and juicy, with intense purple fruit flavors…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a charming rusticity to the nose. It’s ferrous in style, with vestiges of red fruit mixed with damp earth. There’s fine delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins on the entry. Dark berry fruit mixed with ash and black tea, missing just a little weight on…