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Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(includes 76% cabernet sauvignon, the highest percentage ever at Lagrange) Deep, saturated bright ruby-purple. Brooding aromas of cassis, violet and cedar (hibernating now, says Ducasse). Very densely packed but very closed and extremely backward. Nearly painful flavors of black fruits, violet and menthol. Finishes very firm and very long, with powerful tannins supported by the…

Vinous Table: Chez Bruce, London, UK (Aug 2019)

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Moderately saturated ruby-red. More merlot-dominated aromas of raspberry, plum, espresso, mocha and game. Silky, lush and thick, with compelling flavors of boysenberry, bitter cherry and dark chocolate. Complex, smoky, lively wine, finishing with strong torrefaction notes and lovely subtle persistence. The merlot component here goes through…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2005 Yquem is limpid golden in hue. The bouquet is gorgeous, finely-tuned and precise with clear honey, vanilla pod and saffron, less of the almond that I have noticed previously. The palate is built around its exquisite poise, the acidity keeping this Yquem on its tip-toes. As I have noted before, it appears to…

Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)

Rhȏne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. The 1990 La Chapelle held its own in this grouping, and then some. The purity of the fruit and…