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The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lalande-Borie has a much more backward, introspective bouquet than the Fourcas-Borie, displaying earthy, tobacco-infused black fruit that refuses to come out and play. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Quite minerally in style, leading to a fresh finish. Allow this four or five…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Lagrange is fabulous, just as it was from barrel. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, cedar and new leather are all amplified in this gorgeous, striking Saint-Julien. Soft and racy, with no hard edges and exceptional balance, Lagrange is a winner.

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Lagrange (Saint-Julien) is bright, punchy and wonderfully energetic. Red-toned fruit, sweet spice, cedar and pipe tobacco are all beautifully delineated in this mid-weight, vibrant Saint-Julien. I very much like the depth and tension in this barrel sample.

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Lagrange is the smallest production ever since each vine bestowed 4.2 bunches instead of 7 bunches per vines, plus the berries were small, ergo yield was just 26hL/ha. That’s less than 2017 when they suffered frost! This year represents 38% of the crop. It has a delightful, precise bouquet, delineated with minerally black…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Lagrange has a sensual, beautifully defined bouquet of mineral-infused black fruit, briar, touches of wild mint and crushed stone, conveying wonderful energy and precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tensile and focused, delivering plenty of energy and an almost steely but persistent finish. This is a classy Lagrange from winemaker Matthieu…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Lafon-Rochet comes across as diluted and lacking depth, both on its own and also relative to the wines made in Saint-Estèphe more broadly in 2014. While certainly a solid, well-made wine, the 2014 is far less impressive from bottle than it was from barrel.