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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 56/44 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 3.8 pH; 84 IPT; 14.5% alcohol; a roughly 60% selection for the grand vin Deep ruby-purple. Brooding nose opens slowly with air to reveal concentrated, multifaceted aromas of cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and white pepper. Very rich and dense on entry, displaying concentrated flavors of black fruits,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of currant, mocha, truffle and smoke. Fat and plump but with only moderate cut to the sweet flavors of red fruits, truffle and smoke. Offers plenty of sex appeal and a high-pH mouth feel but could use a bit more energy (I would never have picked this blind as a wine from…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good deep red. Very complex, perfumed aromas of plum, leather, meat and minerals. Sweet, lush and young; really stuffed with fat, meaty fruit. Broad without being really thick, with impressive precision of fruit. The most complex of these three vintages of Gruaud-Larose. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and palate-staining sweet fruit. The young 2000 reminds…

Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been one of my favourite Saint Julien wines from that vintage. From magnum, the exquisite bouquet of black fruit, leather and hints of game and antique bureau is fully mature yet vigorous and so joyful. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins that have melted in recent years. Here,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose is actually similar to the Talbot on the nose – unsurprisingly given their propinquity. Dark berry, rose petal, a touch of oyster shell and even a hint of eucalyptus that surfaces with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supper tannins; there is lovely balance and swagger, so pure and generous. It…