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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; the estate-wide yield here was 44 hl/ha) the very early harvest date of September 29 for the merlot (October 15 for the cabernet sauvignon) suggests that the estate might have pulled the trigger a little too quickly here, especially in what is one…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Saturated ruby-purple. Delicate aromas of blueberry and cedar are complicated by hints of graphite and tobacco. Delicate on the palate as well, with pretty black currant and cedar flavors. This wonderfully balanced midweight offers sneaky concentration and great precision to its classic, cabernet-dominated flavors, not to mention a long,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Tasted in components, as usual. #1, from Peleat: spice-accented cherry and blackberry, with a vibrant mineral note in the background. Taut and sharply focused, showing strong tension to the bitter cherry and red berry flavors. The mineral note comes back strong on the back. #2, from Les Beaume: deep-pitched cherry and cassis qualities, plus a…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Tasted in components. #1) Peleat: Emphatically floral, with powerful pear, Meyer lemon qualities, building iodine, fennel and mineral notes. #2) Rocoules Haute: Pungent citrus fruits, pear skin and jasmine on the nose. Weighty yet lithe as well, showing serious intensity to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. #3) Rocoules mid-slope: Spicy and incisive, showing…