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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Grand Puy Lacoste has a very expressive bouquet with blackberry, cedar and graphite notes, quintessentially Pauillac, building in intensity all the time in the glass but remaining correct. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin on the entry, more red fruit here than black, good density with a fine bead of acidity. This…

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Good full red-ruby color. More reticent, brighter aromas of red fruits, tobacco and brown spices. A step up in flavor intensity and sweetness. This has a supple texture and some density, and finishes with finer, sweeter tannins and subtle length. But still in a rather gentle style, with modest thrust.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright, full ruby. Brooding aromas of cassis, black cherry, minerals, bitter chocolate, shoe polish and violet; more Pauillac than Saint-Julien on the nose. Then rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume. As full and sweet as this is, there’s no impression of excess weight and the back end shows a distinctly austere quality,…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Clos du Mesnil captures all the pedigree of this epic Blanc des Blancs vintage. A soaring, majestic Champagne, the 2004 dazzles from the very first taste with its crystalline purity and brightness. In two tastings so far, the 2004 has been nothing less than a total showstopper. The vertical structure and pure, tightly-coiled…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(these vines now average about 17 years of age, according to director Brice de la Morandière, as a lot of replanting was done in 1998 and 1999, with the rest of the vines taken out in 2002 and replanted in 2004): Ripe aromas of yellow peach and hazelnut. Not particularly dense or deep but tactile…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Ornellaia Bianco is a very reserved wine. It does not appear to have the depth of some of its predecessors, but that is mostly attributable to a shift in picking earlier and using more large format oak. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint, sage and green pear lend energy to this taut, Bordeaux-inspired blend….