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Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Moët’s 2006 Brut Grand Vintage is beautiful, finessed and expressive. Smoke, slate, apricot and pastry notes emerge as the wine gradually unfolds. Rich and textured on the palate, yet beautifully supported by veins of minerality, the 2006 is simply impeccable from the very first taste. The richer, honeyed notes typical of Chardonnay in this vintage…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 2005 Talbot was picked from 22 September until 10 October. Having tasted this several times, this might be the best bottle. Deeper in colour than other vintages, it offers much more fruit: blackberry, bilberry and raspberry tinged with cedar and a faint estuarine tang. These aromatics just have more substance than other vintages. The…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full medium ruby. Very primary nose of cassis, licorice, earth and leather, complicated by an almost exotic note of chocolate. Then suave, broad and dry, with a fine-grained texture and very good palate coverage. Doesn’t currently show the lift or intensity of the best Medoc wines of the vintage, but offers a fleshy, solid impression…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Good deep red. Serious nose of currant, cocoa powder and tangy spices. Lovely volume and spherical texture; very pure fruit seems a bit less evolved than that of the Suchots. Finishes very long and subtle, with lush tannins. Lachaux has done an excellent job avoiding the dry tannins that plague so many ’98s from Vosne-Romanee.

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1993 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru must be the best that Christophe Roumier produced in the first half of the 1990s, despite my lukewarm reception to two previous bottles over ten years ago! This has a refined bouquet that demonstrated more fruit intensity than the 1994: dark berry fruit, hints of Lapsang Souchong and shucked oyster…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Proprietor Alfred Tesseron and winemaker Jean-Michel Comme produced an absolutely stellar Pontet-Canet in 2015. Sumptuous, racy and totally inviting, the 2015 is all class. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, spice and exotic floral notes build as the 2015 shows off its alluring personality. Even with all of its raciness, the 2015 speaks with authority and power….