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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, deep red. Classic aromas of boysenberry, black cherry, minerals and lead pencil. Then juicy and penetrating, with cabernet-dominated berry and mineral flavors (there’s a very low 8% merlot in the blend). Finishes with very firm, youthfully tough tannins that will require a good decade of patience. Quite tight today and difficult to assess. We…

Cristal in Magnum: It’s Another World (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal (magnum) is off the charts. In magnum, the 2002 shows a bit less of the opulence and richness it presents in bottle, which is not at all a bad thing for a vintage that has so much natural exuberance. Creamy and exquisitely layered in the glass, the 2002 is wonderfully expressive today,…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1986 Léoville-Poyferré is certainly one of the best of the decade. Typical of the vintage on the nose, it offers a mélange of smoke and graphite on the nose, tighter than the previous vintage with good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, though it has loosened in recent years. Quite sturdy and…