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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Petrus is surprisingly backward on the nose compared directly with the 2009 Le Pin, demanding a lot of coaxing. Initially broody, it then begins to flourish with wild strawberry, cranberry, crushed stone and black truffle, all beautifully defined but very succinct. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins lending an almost cashmere texture….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

I have not had good luck with the 2015 Petit-Village. The first sample was massively tannic and forbidding. A second bottle was marginally better. There, I saw a wine with good up-front appeal but not real depth or persistence to speak of. Needless to say, I liked the 2015 far better from barrel. If the…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Petit Village has a clean and precise bouquet with blackberry, black truffle, smoke and graphite aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a crisp line of acidity, tapering in slightly toward the graphite infused finish. Plenty of energy here, but give it three or four years in bottle….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Petit Cheval has a composed bouquet with blackberry, desiccated orange peel, brown spices and a touch of cedar. The new oak here is judiciously used and allows the terroir to express itself. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannin, well judged acidity and gentle grip in the mouth. There is just the right…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Le Petit Cheval has quite a high-toned, iodine-tinged bouquet with more blue fruit than expected. The palate has a fine grip and good backbone, and features cedar- and graphite-infused black fruit. I admire the density here. Impressive for a 20-year-old second wine, with a touch of clove and allspice toward the finish. Perfect…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Petit Cheval is supple and easygoing. A wine with plenty of near and medium-term potential, the 2013 graces the palate with dark red cherry, plum, smoke and spices. Overall, the 2013 is a pretty, nicely textured wine, but there are elements of slight forwardness and evolution in the flavors that suggest the wine…