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Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright, light yellow. Very rich, explosive aromas of exotic pineapple and honey lifted by pungent calcaire. Extremely rich and concentrated but classically dry and fine-grained, without an ounce of excess weight. A powerful expression of crushed-stone minerality, with its grapefruit and lemon cut accentuating the impression of inner-mouth tension and energy. Finishes extremely long, with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Saturated ruby-red. Full-blown aromas of dark berries, smoked meat, tobacco and iron. Lush, thick and ripe; really builds steadily in the mouth and explodes on the back end. Quintessential La Mission notes of tobacco, minerals, tar and hot stones. Today the 2001 seems even more sharply etched but this is denser, riper and deeper, with…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. At age 21, it has retained its youthful nose of vivid black cherries, wild strawberry and iodine, and shows less of the black olive tapenade element that I noticed in its youth. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion is consistent with my most recent note, although I must admit that I felt there was a touch more brett on the nose than the previous example. Black cherries and iodine to the fore, with some undergrowth and Provençal herbs, it is very complex. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

There’s a honeyed sweetness mixed with candied ginger and hints of sour melon that keeps you coming back to the 2018 Soave Classico La Rocca over and over again. It’s deeply textural and savory in character, with a silky, almost oily feel giving way to ripe apple with saline minerality that adds a bit of…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…