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2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. Very interior wine today, notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is a perplexing wine. Tight and austere, the 2019 is not giving up much today. Then again, it is Richebourg. I like the energy, but the 2019 ultimately feels a bit light. The mid-palate is just not filled out. Next to all the other wines in this range, the Richebourg…

Better Than Water: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2019 in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 15 and 16 of September at 21hL/ha. Slightly lighter compared to the Grands Echézeaux, it has a very transparent bouquet, yet introspective, certainly more tertiary in style with a light ferrous note loitering in the wings. This repays patience, opening with incense and a very subtle lavender…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Lurid violet color. Spice-accented aromas of dark fruit preserves, candied licorice and olive, along with a bright mineral nuance that builds in the glass. Offers sweet cassis, boysenberry and floral pastille flavors that show very good depth and become spicier with air. Rich and fleshy but showing real energy thanks to a spine of smoky…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

The 2009 Pichon Lalande is ripe and decidedly flamboyant from the very first taste. Dense and voluptuous in the glass, with serious richness, the 2009 is also almost shockingly tannic. It won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, and yet, there is so much to look forward to. The warm, dry conditions yielded a dense,…