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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very deep hue. The extraordinarily pure bouquet features black cherries intermingling with blueberry and oyster shell, and later a hint of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and stony, with dark berry fruit and a little spicier than I recall apropos of previous Echézeaux at…

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Full red. Aromas of candied red fruits, gunflint, minerals and pepper. Then subtly sweet in the mouth, with intriguing garrigue notes, moderate stuffing and harmonious acidity. Still a bit youthfully clenched, and a tad dry on the back end, but there’s also enticing sweetness and length.

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Red-ruby. Deep, smoky aromas of roasted plum, redcurrant, leather and game. Sweet and lush, but lovely vinosity gives the currant, plum and gunflint flavors a penetrating quality. As gentle as this wine appears today, there are plenty of fine tannins for aging.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium ruby . Reticent aromas of black cherry and licorice. Bright, tight and high-pitched, with very fresh flavors of dark fruits and flowers currently dominated by firm tannic spine. A bit youthfully tough and in need of at least several years of cellaring.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Grand Puy Ducasse is a wine that I last tasted with no less than Michael Broadbent during a bibulous dinner in Tokyo back in 2004. The bouquet has faded since back then but is still nicely defined with cedar and tobacco stained red fruit, a subtle ferrous tincture and cooked meat. The palate…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Yeasty, vinous, pinot driven aromas of red berries and earth. Large-scaled and mouthfilling, with excellent intensity and subtle notes of apple, lemon and toast. Has a perfumed quality in the mouth. Subtle and very long and nicely balanced for the vintage.