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2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2015 Barolo Colonnello packs a serious punch. Macerated dark cherry, kirsch, spice, leather, licorice, blood orange and a kick of sweet oak all open up this powerful, strapping Barolo. The 2015 offers a good bit of immediacy, but there is plenty of tannin as well. The warmth of the year is evident in the…

Umbria & Lazio: Italy’s Underdogs (Aug 2021)

A mix of mulled yellow apples, crushed hazelnuts, dusty dried flowers and wet stone creates a rich and inviting display as the 2019 Cervaro della Sala evolves in the glass. It’s soft and enveloping, casting opulent waves of textural ripe orchard fruits and subtle savory spices across the palate. Nuances of wild herbs come together…

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Fontalloro is bold, hearty and deeply flavored, with all of the Sangiovese wildness that is so typical of Fontalloro. Ripe dark cherry, grilled herbs, smoke, leather, game and incense are some of the many aromas and flavors that open up in a potent, virile Fontalloro loaded with personality and character. In so many…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) is shaping up to be a tremendous value, by Napa Valley standards. Expressive savory and spice notes meld into a core of dark red fruit, leather, spice and menthol. This deep, fleshy Cabernet Sauvignon delivers the goods in a bold, punchy style that will be an absolute joy to…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a magical wine. The aromatics alone as mesmerizing. Mocha, dried flowers, herbs and a whole range of deeply-pitched spice notes soar out of the glass. Explosive, deep and so full of character, the Cos dazzles from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out hints of rose petal, cedar…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a vintage that I have encountered several times over the years. Here, as part of a 2005 horizontal of the top Bordeaux, it mirrors previous bottles. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, scorched earth, juniper and hints of leather. More backward that its peers and clearly requiring…