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Exploring the Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2007)

Dal Forno’s 2002 Valpolicella is a massively endowed effort revealing backward dark fruit, new leather, spices, herbs, roasted coffee beans and toasted oak on an imposing, tannic frame. Made in a super-concentrated style – even by Dal Forno’s standards – it will require several years of cellaring for the tannins to soften somewhat, although it…

Italy Odds & Ends – 2017 (May 2017)

Quintarelli’s 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva does not appear to have budged much over the last few years. Still intense and tannic, the 2003 will benefit from some aeration as it is a forbidding wine. Super-ripe dark stone fruit, chocolate, leather and licorice notes abound, but as is so often the case with these…

The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2008)

The deeply-colored 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico offers tons of dark fruit, spices, chocolate, licorice and menthol. This chunky, rustic Amarone possesses plenty of persistence on the palate and will appeal most to readers who appreciate traditionally made wines.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Medium red. Explosive, superripe aromas of marzipan, truffle, underbrush and nutmeg. Fat, rich and deep, with an almost confectionery sweetness supported by huge, toothdusting tannins. Intriguing notes of mocha and brown spices. I find this less classy and elegant today than the Asili but more powerfully structured for aging. I can understand Giacosa’s decision to…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Good medium red. Sweet aromas of redcurrant, underbrush, mocha, tobacco and earth. Lush and rich in the mouth; offers outstanding sweetness without being at all stewy. Finishes with thoroughly smooth, sweet tannins and excellent length.

Vinous Table: Sunday Night Supper Club (Dec 2020)

When I first tasted it, I thought the 2001 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà was one of the very best wines Bruno Giacosa had ever made. I thought so highly of the 2001 that I bought several cases on release. Over the last few years I started to notice that some bottles weren’t showing perfectly, but I…