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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around three-quarters whole bunch fruit and is matured in one-third new oak. Despite the small reduction on the nose, there is clearly impressive intensity in this Grand Cru, but it is more backward and more broody than the 2018 tasted from barrel 12 months earlier. With time, there are…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a very well-defined bouquet of red berry fruit laced with undergrowth, rose petals, incense and hints of white pepper; so much vigor here. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, wonderful tension and great length on the finish. This is a class apart, an intellectual and downright delicious…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a magnificent bouquet. Dark berry fruit, crushed roses, minerals and incense soar from the glass. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and allspice, building in the mouth to a multi-dimensional finish that lingers tenderly. Outstanding. Tasted blind at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru boasts one of the most expressive aromatics from barrel, offering dark berries mixed with crushed limestone, pressed flowers and oyster shell, the fruit becoming more intense with aeration. The palate is extremely cohesive with unerring symmetry, filigreed tannins (perhaps more like a Romanée-Saint-Vivant) and immense depth endowed upon its arching,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2006 Dom Pérignon Rosé is every bit as captivating as it was last year, maybe even more so. At times powerful, but in other moments finessed, the 2006 constantly changes in the glass, revealing a different shade of its personality with every taste. Perhaps most importantly, the 2006 seems to have gained a level…

Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France (Feb 2019)

For once, the best wine of the evening during a dinner in Alsace was not an Alsatian white. It’s hard to argue with the simply magnificent 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, a masterpiece of refinement and precision. Not at all a blockbuster, but rather a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it offers…