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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1995 Haut-Brion is currently strutting its stuff: dark berry fruit, Earl Grey tea and warm red brick flourish on the nose, classic yet vibrant and compelling. The palate has reached its plateau after nigh 30 years, with finely embroidered tannins, impressive fruit and weight, yet with First Growth’s signature sophistication and charm on the…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1995 Haut-Brion is currently strutting its stuff: dark berry fruit, Earl Grey tea and warm red brick flourish on the nose, classic yet vibrant and compelling. The palate has reached its plateau after nigh 30 years, with finely embroidered tannins, impressive fruit and weight, yet with First Growth’s signature sophistication and charm on the…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Expressive aromas of peach, butter and vanilla. Dense, chewy and dry, with notes of flowers and marzipan and impressive minerally depth. Classic rich-but-dry white Burgundy, finishing with excellent length. Bottled just two weeks before I tasted it, and more impressive today than when I sampled it from barrel a year ago.

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 Magnan La Gaffelière offers good up-front depth and intensity, but it is ultimately penalized by hard tannins and slightly underripe flavors that give it an awkward, vegetal quality out of character with the personality of the vintage.