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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Latour is a vintage that I have enjoyed a few times. Now at ten years old, it has a very intense and, for Latour, quite an opulent bouquet that is stylistically more akin to Mouton than Lafite-Rothschild: cigar smoke, black truffles and mint emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins….

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé is laced with crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, mint, rose petal and dried herbs. The 2008 has started to fill out, such that it is less austere than in the past, but the driving contours of this cold year are evident. Clean bracing notes support the persistent finish.

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

Rich and explosive in feel, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is outrageously beautiful. For the first time since 2011, the Grand Vin is more than 50% Cabernet Franc. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are all amplified in this potent, luxurious Cheval Blanc. Polished, seamless tannins wrap it all together. This is…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc, the first vintage since 2011 with over half Cabernet Franc, has a very deep color in the glass. The nose is well-defined with tightly coiled red fruit and iodine scents, graphite and light incense aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, an unerring symmetry and a silky smooth finish….

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components,…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied…