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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a perfumed, fairly “airy” bouquet of redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, crushed stone, loam and just a hint of tobacco. This is certainly what you might describe as a “transparent” nose. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. The 2021 is very elegant and smooth in terms…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambertin Grand Cru bides its time in the glass. Dark berry fruit, oyster shell and blackcurrant pastilles mix with subtle autumn leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, cohesive but not deep or concentrated. Shows fine acidity and is nicely poised, though it’s unapologetically conservative on the finish. Is this hiding…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has an almost flinty bouquet with delicate wilted rose petal scents that gradually unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, the 65% whole bunch barely detectable. Very cohesive, fine tannins, very saline towards the finish with shucked oyster shell, one of this limestone-rich vineyard’s signature notes. Sculpted…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(this was slated to be bottled in January 2002; based on 60% mourvedre, in contrast to the ’98, which showcased the glorious grenache of that year) Full ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, roasted nuts, road tar, licorice, leather and game; comes across as riper and more roasted than the regular cuvee Fat, dense and…

2014 Gigondas Charms While 2015 Stuns (Sep 2017)

Dark ruby. Spice-accented strawberry, cherry liqueur and garrigue aromas show good clarity and a smoky mineral overtone. Taut and focused in the mouth, offering gently sweet red fruit, licorice and floral pastille flavors that deepen and open up slowly with air. The persistent finish is framed by subtle tannins and echoes the floral and mineral…