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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has always been a difficult wine to love, and this replicates its previous two showings. Readers should note that this came directly from the property and was assured to be unaffected by the taint that afflicted much of the production at this time. Yet there is still a sense of dumbness on…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some bricking on the rim, although the core remains quite dark. This has an attractive bouquet with lovely tobacco-infused black fruit and touches of black truffle and morels. There is something very gentle here but also intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity,…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Explosive if idiosyncratic aromas of tobacco, pepper, black olive, mocha and hot stones. Pungent and penetrating, with compelling flavors of raspberry, tobacco, black olive, dried rose, mocha, herbs and spices, plus a strong underlying minerality (I was variously reminded of Lafite, Haut-Brion and Ausone!). Suave and perfumed in the mouth; wonderfully ripe but…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…