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1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Black-ruby color. Very black, rather claret-like aromas of cassis, violet, licorice and mint. Vibrant, intense cassis flavor seems less evolved than the ’95 at a similar stage. Boasts persistent finishing flavor, but the tannins are tougher and a bit dry.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Full red-ruby. Reticent, soil-inflected aromas of sappy black raspberry, blueberry, violet, graphite and smoky underbrush; less expressive today than the young 2007. Then compellingly sweet and rich if quite primary, with distinctly purple flavors of dark berries and violet. This superconcentrated wine stains the palate on the extremely long finish, finishing with substantial dusty, fine-grained…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(there’s just a single new barrel of this juice, which was vinified entirely with whole clusters): Bright ruby-red. Explosive wild aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, kirsch, leather, game and violet, accented by a suggestion of peppery François Frères oak. A thick, dense elixir in the mouth, without any heaviness or hard edges but still a bit…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Full medium red. Deep, brooding aromas of strawberry, leather, smoky oak and underbrush. Solid but sullen today; comes across as almost chunky following the Clos de Vougeot and Grands-Echezeaux. A bit disjointed today, owing to its edgy acidity and dusty tannins. This wine’s elements will need time to harmonize.

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

A last minute addition to the lineup, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2005 Romanée Saint-Vivant opens with the most extraordinary, alluring bouquet imaginable. Silky, nuanced and super-polished on the palate, with exceptional purity, the 2005 simply soars out of the glass. The classic weightlessness of RSV comes through loud and clear. Bright saline notes give the…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Multidimensional nose combines blackberry, violet and minerals with exotic spices, earth and underbrush. Then juicy and gripping in the mouth, combining outstanding density and a distinctly light touch. This, too, boasts superb energy and sappiness to its flavors of red fruits, spices and earth. Wonderfully complex already but youthfully tight, firmly structured and…