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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pape Clément has quite a high-toned bouquet with liquorice-infused red fruit, violet and camphor emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe tannins, high-toned and slightly volatile towards the heady finish. This needs calming down. After tasting blind at Southwold, a second bottle at the Bordeaux Index did nothing to alter…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pape Clement is one of racier, more voluptuous wines of the year. Deep, supple and flamboyant, the 2012 is laced with expressive dark stone fruit, game, cured meats and dried flowers. This is one of the more extroverted wines of the year. It should drink well with minimal cellaring and drink well to…

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 Tour St. Bonnet is an attractive Cru Bourgeois. Dark, supple and inviting, it is made in a style that is best enjoyed over the near and medium term. Black chocolate, cherry, plum and spice inform this supple, juicy Merlot-based wine. This should be a good value.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Tour Martillac vindicates itself as perhaps the "insiders' choice" from Pessac-Léognan. It has a well defined bouquet with blackberry, cassis, black olive and estuarine scents bouquet that is very complex and involving. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a pinch of black pepper towards the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium red. Slightly medicinal aromas of black cherry, licorice, tobacco leaf and earth. Spicy and firmly built, with fresh acidity giving the flavors of tobacco leaf, herbs and spices a rather stern mien today. Finishes a tad green, with drying tannins. I’m not sure where this can go in bottle.