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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Ducru Beaucaillou was picked from 11-30 September, matured entirely in new oak for an expected 18 months. It has a very succinct bouquet, not one that leaps from the glass and demands attention, but it unfolds slowly, at its own pace, revealing enticing scents of blackberry, cedar, iris petals and crushed stone. The…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Yquem is a wine I’ve tasted several times in recent months since it is available by the glass in a local restaurant. It’s a middle-of-the-road Yquem, a fine Sauternes but nothing special. The aromatics always feel a little advanced for the wine’s age, offering tangerine, mandarin and light butterscotch scents but perhaps just…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Saturated ruby-red. Superripe but reticent, grenache-dominated aromas of roasted plum, cherry jam, tar and humus. Fat, lush and stuffed with fruit; almost heavy today compared to the ’99. But this is utterly silky and its firm underlying structure is buried by fruit and baby fat. Intriguing meat and licorice notes. A wine of superb finesse…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. Very interior wine today, notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is a perplexing wine. Tight and austere, the 2019 is not giving up much today. Then again, it is Richebourg. I like the energy, but the 2019 ultimately feels a bit light. The mid-palate is just not filled out. Next to all the other wines in this range, the Richebourg…