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1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent red-ruby color. Riper floral and cassis aromas are at once seductive and precise. Sweeter, riper and more textured in the mouth, with a lovely tangy violet-and-spice quality carrying through to the very long finish. Here the tannins are a bit sweeter than those of the Chambolle.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Black raspberry, currant, minerals, herbs and iron on the nose. Stuffed with fruit and minerals yet a bit forbidding today. Boasts very good volume and inner-mouth complexity. Powerful but stylish. Finishes very long, with big, ripe tannins. The best yet.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Vibrant, sweet, almost liqueur-like aromas of framboise, dark berries and violet. Quite dense in the mouth, and seriously structured. Notes of cherry syrup and tar. Longer but tougher on the back end than the ’97; the tannins here give a sensation of extra power.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of plum, leather, meat and tobacco, plus a dusty hint of old oak. Supple on entry, then a bit dry in the middle, with slightly spiky acidity. A fully mature wine with modest density. Somewhat dry-edged finish.

Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

(14% alcohol; bottled in April): Reticent aromas of peach and flowers. A sweet, supple, pliant wine with a lovely sugar/acid balance for early drinking. Acacia flower and hawthorn notes carry through onto the palate. The 3.7 g/l residual sugar is mostly a function of the vintage but helps to buffer the wine’s alcohol. Awfully easy…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Quite closed on the nose, hinting at flowers and toast. Leanish, precise and tightly wound, with terrific focus to the citrus, floral and mineral flavors. This really leaves the salivary glands vibrating on the long finish. Very firm but not hard. If this was acidified, it has been done very cleverly. Wonderfully fresh and delineated…