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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 L’If is precocious on the nose, with macerated black cherries, crushed violet, and blueberry emerging with time, all very well-defined and focused. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a little fleshier than its stablemate L’Hêtre. A pinch of white pepper towards the second half and an…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 L'If is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. In most vintages so far, L'If has been a dense, textured Saint-Émilion. In 2020, all of that energy seems directed toward extreme verticality rather than heft. I have to say, it’s a style I like a lot. Bright acids and persistent tannins…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 L’If is the first to include the Cabernet Franc that Jacques Thienpont planted four years ago, representing 16% of the blend this year, the remainder is Merlot. It has a more open nose than the Le Pin tasted alongside, a mélange of red berry fruit, mint, iodine and a dab of liquorice. That…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc marries power and tension so well. Lemon confit marzipan, chamomile, dried orchard fruit and crushed flowers all build effortlessly into the expansive, beautifully resonant finish. Above all else, the Blanc is a wine of savory/mineral complexity and structure. I wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Tasted two…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, the only white that I tasted from a dispatched barrel sample, has a discrete but complex bouquet with honeysuckle, chamomile, citrus fruit and light waxy aromas. It’s quite understated but it responds to aeration. The palate is fresh on the entry, lightly spiced with modest weight. It does not…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is fabulous. Bright and airy in the glass, the 2020 bristles with energy. Lemon confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all pulse with tons of vibrancy. This finely-cut, chiseled white is going to need a number of years to be at its best, but it is so impressive…