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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Bright ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, cherry, blood orange and dried flowers, with an undertone of zesty spices. Very fresh and incisive red fruit flavors are complemented by sweet lavender and rose pastille, and pick up a peppery nuance with air. Impressively balanced, pure wine with a strong finishing jolt of red berry skin. I…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

Not to be outdone, the 1995 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine Vincent Dauvissat ranks as one of the greatest mature bottles that I have encountered from this esteemed producer. It is blessed with a fabulous bouquet, featuring fresh earth, cockle shells and just a hint of menthol. It’s one of those aromatics that…

Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015 (Nov 2019)

Full yellow with hint of copper. Exotic if reticent aromas of redcurrant, orange, toasted bread, grilled almond, smoke and stone; not especially expressive but somehow conveys an element of delicacy. Then quite densely packed but juicy and energetic, with an impression of solidity leavened by strong minerality and saline soil tones. Just a hint of…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Deep red-ruby. Fresh, fruit-driven aromas of raspberry, cassis, black cherry and spice. Sweet and pristine on the palate, with strong fruit buttressed by powerful acids. Not fat or fleshy, but young, firm and quite long.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Mâcon Pierreclos "Lieu Secret" comes from a parcel called La Chavigne and apparently, after much persuasion, includes fruit from the neighbors’ vines. It is vinified in 25% new oak with eight months of lees-stirring. The rounded, generous, tropical-tinged bouquet features pineapple, melon and satsuma aromas; the oak is very discreet here. The palate…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Vieux Chateau Certan is a vintage that I have not tasted often, something I rue even more having been reacquainted with it. To be honest, for the first five minutes it felt overawed by the 1989. However, it soon gets its act together to deliver and gorgeous nose of black fruit, melted tar…