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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Marsannay L’Ancestrale, which was due to be racked soon to take off some of the lees, has a perfumed bouquet of raspberry, black currant and wild hedgerow, all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, crisp, crunchy red berry fruit, and quite saline in the mouth, with a tang of brine toward…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Marsannay L’Ancestrale, which was due to be racked soon to take off some of the lees, has a perfumed bouquet of raspberry, black currant and wild hedgerow, all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, crisp, crunchy red berry fruit, and quite saline in the mouth, with a tang of brine toward…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Carruades de Lafite is a dark, brooding wine. Dense and plush, with quite a bit of tannin presence, Carruades is quite distinctive in 2021. Blue/purplish fruit and floral notes show tremendous primary intensity. Bright acids on the finish add an attractive sense of freshness that is quite appealing. The 2021 is a serious…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Carruades de Lafite is a classic blend built around 55% Cabernet Sauvignon. Eric Kohler commended the quality of the Cabernet Franc this year, which after being considered for the Grand Vin, in the end found itself being blended into the Deuxième Vin. This year it represents 40% of the total volume. It has…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Clos de Cromin has a perfumed nose with yellow plum, touchces of saffron and jasmine, all well defined. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry, good weight in the mouth, a little waxy in texture towards the finish with stem ginger on the aftertaste. Very fine.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a straightforward bouquet with brambly red fruit with a touch of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, lower in acidity than maybe other cuvées though the fleshiness on the finish is appealing. Quite pure too.