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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some bricking on the rim, although the core remains quite dark. This has an attractive bouquet with lovely tobacco-infused black fruit and touches of black truffle and morels. There is something very gentle here but also intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity,…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru has a more fruit-forward bouquet with vivacious raspberry and wild strawberry commingling with forest floor and subtle tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, well judged acidity, assiduously integrated oak and a lightly spiced, quite persistent finish. Very fine with commendable class. Tasted blind at the…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2009 Sassicaia is unusually big, rich and opulent. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as the 2009 explodes from the glass with a heady mélange of dark berries, plums, menthol, licorice and new leather. This is an especially racy Sassicaia. Readers who enjoy the classicism of Sassicaia are likely to find the 2009 too…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc): Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of blackberry, cassis, lead pencil, violet and minerals, complicated by a superripe note of crushed raspberry. Extremely primary and pure, offering sharply defined cassis, violet and mineral flavors of great class. The perfectly integrated acidity and a vibrant floral character from the…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Medium bright ruby. Expressive nose offers strawberry, ripe red cherry and mineral aromas, all lifted by a floral topnote. Satiny-smooth on entry, with the ripe red berry and sweet spice flavors given laser-like precision by high but harmonious acids. Finishes long and subtle, with a pretty mineral nuance. Estate director Eric d’Aramon told me he…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Figeac was the first vintage with winemaker Frédéric Faye at the helm following the passing of Thierry Manoncourt. It is a tripartite blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc cropped at 29hl/ha, matured in 100% new oak for 20 months. As I have remarked with respect to previous encounters, there is something…