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New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

(aged in all new oak, one-third American and two-thirds French) Dark ruby. Smoky scents of oak spice, asphalt, tar, dark cherry and blackberry, along with a hint of fruitcake. Fat and oily in the mouth, with intense, slightly roasted blackberry, cassis and espresso flavors, accented by oaky vanilla, cinnamon and clove. Quite rich and thick…

Australia Brings the Brawn and the Beauty (Oct 2017)

Glass-staining ruby. Complex, deeply perfumed aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, incense, vanilla, peppery spices and pungent flowers. Supple and broad on the palate, offering impressively concentrated, alluringly sweet blueberry, cherry-vanilla and floral pastille flavors that flesh out and become spicier with air. Shows superb energy and seamless texture on a strikingly long, sweet…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(in barrel, with very little SO2 added to this point): White peach, minerals and a medicinal whiff of menthol on the nose. A far more austere wine than the 2015 version, dominated in the mouth by crushed-rock minerality and menthol. Showing little in the way of flattering fruit in the early going. This is remarkably…

2016 Northern Rhône Whites: Excellent but Often Scarce (May 2018)

Bright straw-gold. Aromas of poached pear and yellow peach are complicated by orange zest, honey and floral nuances. Sappy and broad in the mouth, offering ripe, mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors, along with a suggestion of orange zest that adds bite on the back half. Clings with excellent tenacity on a long, chewy finish…

Alsace & Luxembourg: 2017s and Late-Released 2016s (Jan 2019)

Golden-tinged yellow. Almond paste, beurre blanc, lemon curd, sweet spices, coconut and toast, complicated by a hint of petrol. Bright and acid, offering lively flavors similar to the aromas. A hint of noble rot is typical of the vintage, as it was in 1998. This is very complex, especially on the nose, and boasts a…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…