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Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Spice-driven dark berry, cherry, peony and licorice aromas are sharpened by a zesty mineral flourish. Fleshy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors turn sweeter with air and pick up a smoky nuance on the back half. Shows fine definition and energy and finishes spicy and quite long, displaying gently chewy tannins and a resonating floral quality.

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep, shimmering garnet. Highly perfumed cherry, blueberry, smoked meat, coconut and floral pastille scents are complemented by a succulent herb nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering intense cherry-vanilla, candied rose, cola and mocha flavors sharpened by a late jolt of spiciness. Shows outstanding clarity and penetrating…

Vinous Table: La Casita, Guildford, UK (Sep 2020)

The 2011 Rioja Gran Reserva 904 has been one of my go-to cuvées since my earliest days as a wine lover. This latest release is a blend of 60-year-old Tempranillo from Briñas, Rodenzo and Villalba (89%) and the remainder Graciano from the Montecillo vineyard. Fully de-stemmed and aged for 54 months in American oak, it…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep red. Expansive scents of ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri and baking spices, plus hints of vanilla and tobacco in the background. Gently chewy in texture and appealingly sweet, offering nicely concentrated cherry-vanilla, blueberry and mocha flavors that tighten up on the back half. Shows good depth as well as energy and finishes long…

Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015 (Oct 2019)

The 2015 Rioja Reserva, which comes mainly from Rioja Alavesa, has a tightly wound bouquet of broody black fruit, Cuban cigar and black olive. It is not intense, but it is very elegant. The medium-bodied palate is off-dry, marked by fine acidity and plenty of soy-tinged black fruit. With aeration, it develops more depth and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lively, again, very mineral driven nose. The whole bunches, around two thirds, are neatly integrated. The palate is fresh and quite saline on the entry, and minerally like almost all of Roumier’s other 2021s. Very fresh with a harmonious, slightly brittle finish. It is very Cras,…