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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(80% vendange entier; 20% new oak): Deep red. Distinctly wild aromas of black raspberry, violet, leather and game. Very rich and fine-grained, conveying an impression of medicinal reserve to its complex flavors of raspberry, black cherry, licorice and wild herbs. Offers a superb combination of clarity and depth. Finishes juicy and long, with serious ripe…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Opaque ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Intense herbal, cola and coffee notes keep the blackcurrant aroma in check, but I find this nose ultimately lacks grace. Straightforward and austere, with blackberry, cedar and herbal flavors displaying good length. Finishes with a nice peppery kick but this Pauillac currently…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Duhart-Milon has an intense but tightly coiled nose of black fruit laced with cedar and mint. I would have liked to see a little more precision. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and very well judged acidity. There is an appealing sense of symmetry here with fine precision and tension on the…