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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Brilliant ruby-red. A complex and highly expressive nose evokes fresh cherry, cassis, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers, and subtle vanilla and smoky mineral flourishes build in the glass. Sweet, penetrating and energetic on the palate, offering incisive dark berry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that take a turn to finer red fruits on the back…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined nose with tightly-wound black fruit laced with mint and graphite. This certainly needs time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fleshy tannins. It’s open and generous with black cherries, wild strawberries and touches of orange rind. There’s good substance, and it’s fleshy on the finish. The…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages is quite savoury on the nose with dried blood and meat juices intermixed with the black fruit. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry, quite dense and muscular for a Pauillac, grippy towards the finish where I am seeking more elegance and precision. Not bad, though not the best wine…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Dark aromas of cassis, licorice, violet and vanilla. Penetrating and well-delineated, showing a light touch to its intense if slightly lean dark fruit and spice flavors. Finishes with very good grip and length, but a bit tart for me. A wine of very good but not outstanding concentration.

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

Another dark, intense wine, the 2011 Ornellaia boasts superb depth, richness and power. Here, too, the 2011 has tightened up quite a bit over the last six months. Today, the searing tannins are quite prominent, giving the 2011 an element of gravitas and muscle that argues for cellaring. How long? I am not sure, but…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Fully saturated ruby. Reticent aromas of deep black fruits and spices complemented by menthol, grilled herbs and vanillin oak.  Dense, sweet and powerful but still quite primary, conveying a distinctly high pitch to its ripe black cherry, violet and coffee flavors.  Finishes saline, tannic and very long, with impressive muscle and noteworthy medicinal reserve. A…