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Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

Just bottled, the 2016 Ornellaia is a dense, powerful wine. Naturally, the 2016 is just at the beginning of its life, but I am struck by how polished the tannins are for such a young wine. Ornellaia is at its best starting around age ten, but there is little doubt the 2016 is a hugely…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; 3.54 pH; 6.03 g/l total acidity; 81 IPT; 13.2% alcohol): Fully saturated bright ruby. Currently in a slightly dumb phase and aromatically compressed on the nose, revealing cool blackberry and cassis aromas with extended aeration, complicated by notes of cola,…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep ruby-red. Deeply pitched aromas of inky cassis, licorice, mocha and smoky, nutty oak. Fairly large-scaled and layered but dominated by its acid/tannin spine in the early going, displaying firm, coolish flavors of black plum, licorice and graphite. The lingering finish features substantial but ripe tannins. Give this at least a few years of cellaring…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…

The Bordeaux Soundtrack: Icons at Legacy Records (May 2024)

The 2010 Montrose is one of the highlights of the Icons of Bordeaux dinner. It has a show-stopper nose with powerful, intense, mineral-rich black fruit, becoming quite floral with aeration. Potpourri hints complement tobacco notes. The palate is fresh, vibrant and weighty, yet paradoxically, it has wonderful finesse. There is a symmetry about this Montrose,…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Mouton Rothschild has a more open bouquet than I expected: blackberry, pencil box, a whiff of the Gironde estuary, a hint of pressed flowers with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannin, a little fleshier than the Château Margaux with a lovely saline finish that does not outstay its welcome. You could…