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Sonoma’s Stellar 2016s (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota Vineyard is laced with a host of mineral and soil-driven elements that add considerable nuance to the dark, plush fruit. Smoke, graphite, gravel, incense, blackberry jam and menthol give the 2015 its layered, beautifully expressive personality. I would prefer to give the 2015 a few years in bottle to…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé is magnificent. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2008 offers up an exotic mélange of aromas and flavors. Sweet red cherry, mint, orange peel and rose petal all grace this beguiling beauty. Bright acids and a little less still red Pinot (21%) than in most recent editions yields a…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aromatic nose combines crystallized blackberry, cassis, shoe polish and mint. Tight, firm and rather ungiving in the mouth, with moderately ripe, muscular flavors of cassis, licorice and shoe polish. Doesn’t quite deliver the flavor interest promised by the nose.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Haut Brion is another vintage that I have not seen for a number of years. It has a light, maybe slight smudged nose that is quite leafy in style, autumnal, hints of bay leaf and a light marine influence developing but never quite delivering the vigor of its sibling, the 1988 La Mission…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, plum, licorice and mocha on the nose, plus suggestions of meat, leather and burning tobacco. Supple and smooth on entry, then a bit simple in the middle palate, with a slight mintiness emerging with aeration. This is less filled in than the promising 2006, with less verve and definition. Finishes broad but slightly…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

Lurid ruby. Highly fragrant scents of ripe red berries, Indian spices, garrigue and candied flowers; a smoky mineral element builds steadily in the glass. Smooth and seamless in texture, offering palate-staining black raspberry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that show a suave marriage of depth and vivacity. Closes spicy, gently tannic and impressively long, leaving…