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2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good deep red. Less brutal and more perfumed than the regular release, with a deep black cherry note on the nose. Suaver and more elegant in texture: finer-grained, lusher and sweeter, with a strong licorice note. Tannins are substantial but ripe.

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Good full red. Less obviously ripe aromas of black cherry, dark berries, cocoa powder, and smoke, plus a faint medicinal nuance. More open in the mouth today than Beaucastel’s ’97; shows lovely sweetness and texture and very good cut and thrust. Hints of leather and game. Not quite as ripe as the ’97, but finishes…

Germany 2009: Everybody’s Darling (Jan 2011)

Golden yellow. Christmas fruitcake with cherry, white raisin and a trace of honey on the nose. Glossy, creamy and rich on the palate, with subtle slate and brown spices and a floral element interwoven with the wine’s glorious nectarine fruit. The brown spice botrytis element adds complexity to the persistently mineral finish. What an auslese!

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

The 2003 Clos du Mesnil is insanely beautiful. Vivid, resonant and textured in the glass, the 2003 boasts magnificent depth and pure breed. Since I last tasted it a few months ago, the 2003 has begun to shut down, which is probably a great sign for its future and overall longevity. Hints of smoke, slate…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Bright, deep red-ruby. Primal crushed raspberry and game on the nose, with musky suggestions of coffee and mocha. Densely packed and distinctly wild in the mouth, with a juicy quality to the black fruit flavors. This is a bit reduced today but the tannic finish boasts very strong and persistent fruit and mineral flavors.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé is compact and powerful on the nose, with blacker fruit than the preceding two Clos Vougeots. There is a touch of cola and cough candy here, though they feel incongruous. The palate is medium-bodied, not quite as muscular as other wines from de Vogüé from this period, with slightly…