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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

It has been six years since I last tasted the 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, when I wrote “Class. Class. Class.” I have no need to alter that assessment. With fragrant raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and flint on the nose, this has a transparency that is a wonder to behold. The palate is beautifully balanced,…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep medium red. Very reticent nose hints at red berries, truffley underbrush and nutty oak. Fatter, sweeter and richer than the Echézeaux, displaying superb volume for the year. Ripe redcurrant and graphite flavors are enlivened by minty mineral lift. Finishes with fine tannins and plenty of lightly peppery acidity to support a graceful evolution in…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Saturated red. Intensely perfumed, complex bouquet of spicy red berries, incense, minerals and dried violet. Sweet red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, energized by dusty minerals. A hint of bitter cherry pit adds grip to the sappy, impressively long finish.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium ruby . Reticent aromas of black cherry and licorice. Bright, tight and high-pitched, with very fresh flavors of dark fruits and flowers currently dominated by firm tannic spine. A bit youthfully tough and in need of at least several years of cellaring.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Very deep ruby. Flamboyant nose loaded with superripe red fruits, almond flower and spicy clove. Enters smooth but dense, offering rich, ripe flavors of red cherry, black plum, minerals and white pepper. Sweet, well-balanced and attractive, this serious, very long wine finishes with an enticing hint of marzipan.

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2009 La Dominique is missing freshness and a sense of energy on the nose, just like the previous two vintages. Strangely, I would never guess this as a 2009 just by the lack of exuberance and joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied and thankfully shows better than the aromatics. There is good weight in the…