Archives: Product Reviews

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2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Glass-staining purple. Intense dark berry and Asian spice aromas, with a sexy potpourri quality and a suggestion of woodsmoke. Deeply pitched cassis and bitter cherry flavors show impressive clarity and lift, picking up notes of star anise and allspice on the back half. Packs a serious punch but comes off as lithe, with excellent finishing…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Inky ruby. Deep, brooding and initially inscrutable, with uncannily concentrated blackberry and cassis scents. Rich dark fruit preserve flavors seem almost solid, but there’s wonderful vivacity too. Picks up supple tannins on the finish, which leaves a tattoo of black and blue fruits on the palate. Extremely primary right now.

Alto Piemonte: Small Is Beautiful (Feb 2024)

The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lifted. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon and orange peel grace this ethereal, nuanced Gattinara. Bright saline notes and sweet red-toned fruit build into the long, persistent finish. Understated and silky, the 2020 is exquisite. All this needs is a few years to soften.

Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that…

Saar Riesling 2018: Beating the Heat (Jul 2020)

White peach and white currant in jellied form are wreathed in thyme and mint and accompanied by a whiff of raw mushroom on an enticing nose and a glossy, faintly oily palate. Prominent sweetness is checked by an influx of fresh citrus, along with mouthwatering salinity. The vibrantly persistent finish introduces nippy aspects of green…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc): Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of blackberry, cassis, lead pencil, violet and minerals, complicated by a superripe note of crushed raspberry. Extremely primary and pure, offering sharply defined cassis, violet and mineral flavors of great class. The perfectly integrated acidity and a vibrant floral character from the…