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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Cheval Blanc flirts with perfection, this perhaps the best bottle that I have drunk. Incredible delineation on the nose, pixelated red fruit so vibrant and poised, with underlying hints of pencil box and forest floor. This just blossoms in the glass. The palate is very complex and refined, perfectly poised, layers of graphite-infused…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Managing Director Véronique Dausse opened a 1995 Phélan Ségur on the first day of my visit during en primeur, and it turned out to be a very pleasant surprise since this is not regarded as a particularly auspicious decade for the estate. Showing modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet has a little more pep…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Good medium color. Austere aromas of dark berries and iodine. Ripe bitter cherry fruit; decent richness and texture. Finishes with tongue-coating tannins and modest length.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1998 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, is so much better than the succeeding vintage, one that I have admired since first tasting it just after bottling. There is much more complexity and personality on the nose with vivacious red berry fruit, the rose petals and kirsch that I noticed before, maybe here with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Perfumed, sappy aromas of redcurrant, flowers and minerals. Intensely flavored, high-pitched and penetrating, with a deep core of spice contributing to the impression of vinosity. Shows a youthful austerity today. Finishes very long and brisk, with substantial, dusty tannins. I always think of Michael Broadbent descriptor flavory (actually, flavoury) when I taste a dry,…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Montrose has a slightly rustic bouquet but is quite charming. It offers mainly red fruit, bacon fat, undergrowth and peaty scents, which are very Saint-Estèphe in style. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins. It is savory and a little dry, especially towards the finish, though there is good weight, and it is…