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Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Pungently zesty lime and grapefruit peels meet on the nose, accompanied by quarry-dust chalkiness. On the surprisingly lush palate, tangy pineapple core and juicy, pit-inflected white peach join the citrus peels and dusty chalk. The wine finishes with vibrancy; admirable transparency to chalky, stony, alkaline detail; pronounced piquancy that manages not to turn into outright…

2022 Wachau and Lower Austria: An Overshadowed Vintage Worth Exploring (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg is grown on dark amphibolite and fermented in large used wood. There is a slight spray of floral charm before supple yeast takes over on the nose. The palate is flowing, completely edged by citrus that brings out the red-green apple juiciness of the mid-palate. All of this is a…

2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg, from volcanic amphibolite soils, opens with a slight reductive funkiness. The palate is smooth and elongated, edged with lemon zest and a lovely pithiness that adds salt. There is some alcoholic power, but the more you savor, the more this delicious saltiness comes to the fore. Wonderfully zesty, wonderfully long.

2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg comes from soils that unite clay and maritime sediments with a loess cover. It was fermented and aged in a range of barrel sizes. The nose is shy; only a slight savor of miso and Mirabelle plum appears. On the palate, the wine is smooth and flows with beautifully…

Tail Fin Delights: Mâconnais 2023/2024 (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras 1er Cru comes from limestone soils. It has a more weighty, dense nose than the Les Reisses although for me it does not quite deliver the same complexity and mineralité by direct comparison. The palate is well balanced with citrus-lemon and orange rind on the entry, the mineralité coming through…

Looking Back: 2007 Sauternes (Oct 2022)

The 2007 Château de Myrat has quite a strong, petrolly bouquet that slightly obscures the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with tangy marmalade and quince on the entry. Good acidity here, and it gains more clarity towards the finish. As the aromatics calm down, this turns into a fine Sauternes. Tasted at the…