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The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

Ruby-red. Shockingly deep in color for a ten-year-old wine. Explosive aromas of cherry compote, black raspberry, blood orange, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Pure, vibrant and sweet, offering intense cherry and red berry flavors, with tangy mineral spine and an exotic smokiness. Extremely deep but energetic, with a powerful echo of minerals and singed orange…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering musky, slightly reduced scents of very ripe peach and grilled nuts. Sweet, large-scaled and powerful but youthfully laid-back today. More tannic than the Bienvenue but the firm finishing flavors of pear and minerals titillate the retronasal passage. Still a baby.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion….

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2015 Yquem has always been a vintage that I have approached with caution. It was a very early harvest that began on 3 September and finished on 21 October after temperatures fell during the picking. As usual, I have reservations about the nose that, for me, lacks the cohesion and complexity of the 2014….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 d’Yquem is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Just as alluring from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 is a wine that engages all of the senses, from the intellectual to the more hedonistic. Lilting notes of pineapple, mint, orange peel and white flowers grace the palate, but…