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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of kirsch and bitter chocolate; slightly porty. Then dense and chocolatey in the mouth, with very ripe currant flavor firmed by menthol and sound acidity. I like the sugar/acid balance here, but the wine comes across as a bit beefy and aggressive, and the finish shows a dry edge. Seems rather…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The real surprise in this flight, the 1993 Masseto comes out of nowhere. Explosive and remarkably deep for a wine of its age, the 1993 is vibrant and so expressive. Hints of leather, game, smoke, dark fruit, spice and chocolate open up in the glass, but more than anything else I am simply struck by…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1970 Haut-Brion. Unfortunately, one bottle opened in Burgundy was a little oxidized, though another was more representative. Even so, it was not a great period for the estate, then owned by the Woltners. Plenty of dusty black fruit on the nose infused with black olive,…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

A host of Cabernet Sauvignon-infused aromas make a strong opening statement in the 1978 Pichon Lalande. There is certainly no shortage of power or character. If anything, the 1978 is perhaps a bit lacking in mid-palate depth, which gives it an element of austerity. Aside from that small critique, the 1978 is deeply expressive and…

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1978 Pichon-Lalande has always been one of the best of the decade. Vibrant and detailed on the nose, fresh as a daisy, hints of oyster shell with black fruit vie for attention. Cohesive and delineated, the aromatics here just exude classic Claret. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-boned tannins. For a 1978 Pauillac,…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is dense, ample and also ethereal, as only it can be. Once again, Romanée-Conti elicits thoughts of art forms like cubist paintings or jazz, where themes are implied but never expressly stated. Above all else Romanée-Conti is a Burgundy that engages all the senses. You want answers, but all you…