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2011 Barolo, Part 2 – Late Releases (Dec 2015)

Conterno’s 2011 Barolo Francia lifts from the glass with the most finessed, exquisite aromatics imaginable. Over the last decade, Monfortino has not been made three times; 2003, 2007 and 2009, all warm vintages for Piedmont. In each of those years, the Francia was a big, racy Barolo. But the 2011 is totally different. Readers will…

2011 Barolo, Part 2 – Late Releases (Dec 2015)

Conterno’s 2011 Barolo Francia lifts from the glass with the most finessed, exquisite aromatics imaginable. Over the last decade, Monfortino has not been made three times; 2003, 2007 and 2009, all warm vintages for Piedmont. In each of those years, the Francia was a big, racy Barolo. But the 2011 is totally different. Readers will…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…