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2000 and 1999 White Burgundies (Sep 2001)

Subtle, oily aromas of peach and smoke. Fairly large-scaled and concentrated, with ripe pit fruit flavors enlivened by firm acidity. This is rather accessible for a young Virondot from Morey but still has a penetrating quality and a slightly austere, aggressive back end, with a bit of acidity yet to be absorbed.

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red color. Intensely spicy and rich on the nose, with vibrant aromas of kirsch, raspberry, wild strawberry, anise and fresh rose. Amazingly concentrated, juicy and pure in the mouth, with compelling, energetic flavors of dark raspberry, cherry preserves, poached rhubarb and rose pastille. The minerally finish, which features completely buffered tannins, builds inexorably and…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red color. Intensely spicy and rich on the nose, with vibrant aromas of kirsch, raspberry, wild strawberry, anise and fresh rose. Amazingly concentrated, juicy and pure in the mouth, with compelling, energetic flavors of dark raspberry, cherry preserves, poached rhubarb and rose pastille. The minerally finish, which features completely buffered tannins, builds inexorably and…

1970s Night at Babbo, New York (Jun 2009)

Perrier-Jouët’s 1976 Belle Epoque, from magnum, was one of the more advanced 1976 Champagnes of the night, but it was also remarkably complete and harmonious.

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is powerful and explosive in style, with superb overall intensity. In this flight, the 1990 comes across as a more polished version of the 1993. Just beginning to enter its tertiary phase, the 1990 is in a great place to deliver maximum pleasure. Autumn leaves, crushed flowers mint and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale orange-bronze color. Pinot-like aromas of blood orange, game, smoke and earth, along with hints of orange marmalade and peach; the nose of this wine always reminds me of Nuits-Saint-Georges or Vosne-Romanee. Very intensely flavored, ripe and tactile, but without an ounce of excess weight. Compelling flavors of wild red fruits, spices and earth; very…