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Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 23 and 24 August, the first fruit to be picked. Yields are 31.7hL/ha. It has a very perfumed bouquet, with more intensity than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but I wonder whether it matches it for complexity? There is a lovely background ember scent with Earl Grey loitering in the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has such a pretty nose that disguises the trauma of the growing season: ebullient redcurrant, white-tipped strawberry and light stony scents. The palate is taut and fresh, just the right amount of countervailing bitterness, with a lively finish. Just a lovely Gevrey.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru contains around 50% whole bunches, yet the stem addition is better integrated than the Chambolle-Village, allowing the terroir to come through. Wonderful definition here with airy and pure red fruit. The palate is very well balanced with fine structure, more cohesion, superb mineral tension with a…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Pape Clément is strikingly beautiful. Dark, sumptuous and creamy, it exudes class. Black cherry, mocha, spice, espresso, menthol and new leather are all pushed forward in a spherical, rich wine that captivates all the senses. As always, this is an overt style, but the purity of the fruit comes through nicely now that…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Pape-Clement has a very classy bouquet with red berry fruit, cranberry and strawberry mixed with clove, sandalwood and a hint of black olive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very focused and beautifully integrated with the oak. It just builds in the mouth towards a very confidence, sophisticated, tensile finish with graphite…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1981 Gruaud Larose is a bottle that I chose when proprietor Jean Merlaut invited me to pick a mature vintage. Though it is now a rather forgotten year, I have fond memories of the Gruaud Larose and I was intrigued to find out if it was still drinking well. The answer is yes. At…