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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Medium red-ruby. Red cherry, raspberry, wild plum, truffle, underbrush, minerals and smoked meat on the nose; I might have picked this as Clos Vougeot. Thick but sappy, with a seamless texture and terrific concentration for the vintage. Lovely ripe acidity lifts the wine’s flavors and gives it considerable early sexy appeal. Gaja notes that this…

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Ornellaia opens with striking, compelling aromatics that draw the taster in. Still deep, rich and intense throughout, the 2005 has held up beautifully. Sweet herbs, tobacco, spices, sage and plums add shades of dimension to a core of super-ripe, exotic fruit that is one of the vestiges of a late-ripening vintage in which…

Gaja: Sorì San Lorenzo 1971-2011 (Nov 2014)

Silky and gracious on the palate, the 2009 Sorì San Lorenzo looks to be a wine that will drink well with just a few years of cellaring. This is a decidedly floral, lifted yet radiant wine with terrific balance and plenty of the sexiness that defines the very best wines of the year.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good full red. Pungent aromas of maraschino cherry, minerals, smoke and camphor; the most Barolo-like of Gaja’s 2009s from the Barbaresco zone. The thickest and most concentrated too, sweet and mouthfilling but very backward. The combination of sheer stuffing and medicinal reserve along with fine-grained, dusty tannins and outstanding persistence suggests that this plump but…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good deep red. Black raspberry, sour cherry, mocha and cedar on the nose. Sweet, dense and velvety, with a three-dimensional texture to the flavors of black fruits, licorice and violet. Projects an impression of medicinal reserve and power allied to great sweetness. Finishes with big but fine-grained and thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining black fruits.

White Truffles, Barolo & Barbaresco (Nov 2014)

Is Giacomo Conterno’s 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia a traditional or modern Barolo? Great question. Texturally, the 2006 boasts marvelous depth and a level of pure intensity not often seen in traditionally made wines, yet the aromatics, tannin and overall structure are all super classic. This is another austere, tannic Barolo best left alone.