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The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good cherry-red. Closed, phenolic nose hints at black cherry, roasted nuts and menthol. Highly extracted and unevolved almost aggressive today and not showing the extreme ripeness of the vintage. Still, concentrated and firm, with tannins under control. For the cellar.

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2013 Barolo Cerequio is soft, delicate and understated, with a creamy expression of fruit, silky tannins and exceptional overall balance. Sweet floral notes, bright red stone fruits, mint and cinnnamon give the wine its aromatic lift and presence. The only thing the 2013 is missing is the fruit intensity and exuberance of the very…

Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)

We start with the 2012 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello, which is everything I expect. Perfumed, gracious and utterly sublime, the 2012 is all nuance. It is a real treat to taste and drink after two weeks of tasting embryonic six-month-old Bordeaux. It is also absolutely gorgeous with some of the lighter first courses on the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Montrose is dazzling. Whereas so many 2018s are opulent and broad, Montrose is a wine of vertical explosive power. Ripe Cabernet aromatics soar out of the glass, making a strong first impression. Black cherry, leather, licorice, graphite and menthol develop later as the 2018 starts to open in the glass. The energy, vibrancy…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Montrose delivers on the promise that it showed from barrel. I gave this a three-hour decant before broaching, since Montrose is always backward, albeit far less ferociously than even just a decade ago. It offers copious blackberry and blueberry scents on the nose, plus pressed violets and a light estuarine scent that becomes…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2000 Ducru-Beaucaillou is very deep in colour. Surprisingly, the nose is very backward in this example with quite intense black cherries, boysenberry, prune and fig aromas, gaining clarity and vigour with aeration (serious decanting is advised for this millennial.) The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Stocky, but not muscular, this has a firm…