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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or Vieilles Vignes has a nicely detailed, peppermint tinged bouquet that feels quite feisty. The palate is very limey and minty, more like Riesling in style than a Chardonnay. Bit of an odd showing here.

The Pfalz – Not False – Promise of 2018 (Mar 2021)

A pungent nose full of pennyroyal presages the cooling as well as pungent green herbal impression conveyed on an otherwise polished palate. Smoky, stony and alkaline impingements render the tartly appley finish highly invigorating. Here is another instance of a relatively high-elevation and coolingly woods-capped site conducing to animation atypical of the vintage.

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

Monsanto’s 2017 Chianti Classico is soft, fruity and delicious, all of which make it an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Bright red cherry, raspberry and sweet floral notes add to the wine’s immediacy and overall appeal.

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Fresh apple and lime are suffused with chalky crushed stone on a forceful nose and a firm, brightly juicy palate. This finishes with implacable, vibratory grip and features a mouthwatering, crustacean-like alliance of sweet-saline animal and mineral elements, but along with that come chalk, crushed stone, peat and ash. Nor does this multifacetedly mineral libation…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

(racked; two-thirds vendange entier Good full red. Classic soil-driven Pommard aromas of medicinal cherry, smoke and menthol. Big, round and sweet; in a softer, lusher style than the Rugiens, without quite that wine’s density and definition. Finishes with slightly dusty tannins.

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

A powerful, high-toned nose suggests plum distillate, strongly intimating the pit piquancy that emerges on a glossy, glycerol-rich, expansive palate. Buddleia and rosemary flower also waft from the glass and then add inner-mouth allure. There is a remarkable sense of sap and energy to the long, gripping, piquant yet refreshingly limey, juicy finish. Here is…