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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru veers towards a more malic style, a bit lean for its class with some reduction. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry. It shows fine depth, though it doesn’t possess the mineral core of the previous wine. Nevertheless, it does build nicely, so there is ample weight and concentration…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru displays too much reduction on the nose, missing the éclat of Chartron’s Leflaive although it does improve with aeration and attains satisfying delineation. The palate is bitter on the entry with sour lemon and a twist of orange rind, just a bit of dryness that creeps in towards…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a slight mustiness on the nose at first, clarifying to a degree with aeration. Light peppermint scents emerge and perhaps slightly detract from its terroir. There’s more yellow fruit here. The palate is well-balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and vibrant. This is a livewire Les Pucelles…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Saturated dark red-ruby. Deep, powerful aromas of kirsch, menthol, licorice and dark chocolate, along with a faint musky nuance. Wonderfully rich and enveloping wine, with its distinctly dark fruit flavors accented by pepper and spices. At once dense and energetic owing to its sappy minerality and surprising back-end acidity, this wine is nonetheless a bit…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the entire bottom of this vineyard was fried by frost, according to régisseur François Duvivier): Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more…