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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the two-hectares on the Puligny side, comprising five parcels vinified separately (although I tasted the final blend). It has a very pure bouquet and, especially for Drouhin, an intense bouquet of lanolin, walnut and pressed flower aromas that if anything becomes even more powerful with aeration. The palate…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles Saint-Jacques 1er Cru contains 25% whole bunch fruit. It has a very polished bouquet, the 50% new oak neatly integrated into the mixture of blue and red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, higher-toned than Magnien’s other wines, and a sweet cassis-tinged finish. Excellent.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru comes from all four soil profiles in the vineyard – the only producer to have the “complete set.” The generous bouquet presents red cherry and wild strawberry fruit, crushed stone and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with supple tannins, black pepper and a touch…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru sported a lot of reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read on my visit. The palate meanwhile, is clean and fresh, slightly reduced with a dense, concentrated orange pith and mandarin finish. That reduction will go by the time of bottling, although I am more…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Talbot is soft, silky and wonderfully nuanced on the palate. Much more refined from bottle than it was from barrel, the 2014 has moved toward greater finesse over the last two years. This is a lovely effort. Lifted rose petal and lavender notes add closing nuance. The blend is 62 % Cabernet Sauvignon,…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Talbot has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry and light violet petal aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy and chunky tannin, good weight in the mouth if just missing the finesse of its peers towards the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold…