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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Mouton Rothschild has a complex bouquet with predominantly red fruit, singed leather, cedar and warm gravel. You might have expected these aromatics to derive from a warmer growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, fine acidity, quite fleshy and sweet with a lovely build towards the finish. Very long on the…

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

Medium red. Knockout perfume of raspberry, minerals and truffley underbrush accented by licorice and pepper notes. Wonderfully silky yet energetic, with vibrant raspberry and Asian spice flavors complicated by sexy earth tones and a truffley sweetness. An element of saline minerality builds in the middle palate, with notes of pepper and herbs contributing thrust. Really…

Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Apr 2008)

Our last Burgundy of the night was served blind. It was an explosive, ripe wine packed with an impressively dense core of fruit framed by new oak. It turned out to be the 2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, a wine that is perhaps 15 years away from being ready to drink. Needless to…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a little more fruit intensity on the nose; it is slightly darker by direct comparison. Fine delineation, quite bold in the context of the vintage. The palate is very intense, fine acidity, very sensual with just a hint of dark chocolate and black truffle shavings on the…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru soars out of the glass with tons of vertical intensity. Deep, structured and explosive, the RC is another magnificent wine in this tasting. When it might actually be ready to drink is another question entirely. Hints of black cherry, plum, mocha, gravel, incense and tobacco open with great reluctance. The…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on 26 and 28 August at 28.7hL/ha. As usual, I leave it for 5-10 minutes to open in the glass, predisposed not to show everything upon first pour. It reveals lovely dark berry fruit, sous-bois, clove and haunting sea spray notes (picture yourself walking along the pebble beach…