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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a stunning bouquet with pixelated black fruit, crushed stone and graphite aromas that soar from the glass. This is just amazingly focused. The palate is medium-bodied with concentrated black fruit curiously tinged with cough candy, which here I find just a bit out of place. The acidity is extremely well judged…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Classic Pauillac aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice lifted by a violet topnote. Intensely flavored and sharply delineated, with terrific fruit intensity to support its very bright acidity. This firmly structured, gripping wine is a bit dominated by its serious tannic spine today, but the dark berry fruit…

Focus on California (May 2000)

Saturated ruby. Liqueur-like superripe nose combines roasted cherry, black raspberry, minerals and Valrhona chocolate; distinctly port-like notes. Voluptuous and huge in the mouth, with explosive fruit bordering on confectionary; flavor of chocolate-covered currants. Much more powerfully structured than the estate second wine but the backbone is hidden under a tidal wave of lush fruit. Endless…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild has an understated bouquet at first, featuring scents of blackberry, bilberry and traces of kelp and brine. Wonderful delineation here, and it builds in intensity with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a velvety-smooth texture and an elegant, utterly beguiling…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

A towering, thrilling wine, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild is unbelievably beautiful today. Aromatics, fruit density and vertical structure all come together. In the glass, the 2016 is remarkably vivid and powerful, and yet a gentler, more feminine side emerges with time in the glass. The intense, mineral, savory profile recalls the 1986, but the 2016…