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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru offers intensity similar to the Montmains, but this is a little more petrolly on the nose, which is beautifully defined and very focused, developing a faint nuttiness with aeration. The palate is well balanced and conveys a sense of energy on the entry. Saline to its core, this…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Petit Chablis offers light apple blossom and crisp citrus peel scents on the nose, pretty but not complex. The palate bursts with dewy green apples on the entry and razor-sharp acidity. Short and straight-to-the-point on the finish. This should drink well for 4–6 years.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Moderately saturated medium color. Meaty, herbaceous nose with a suggestion of exotic fruits. Fruit shows a sweet/sour character, with a suggestion of stems and hints of prunes and stewed tomato. Seems disjointed today, soft despite the fact that the acidity sticks out: perhaps simply a case of lacking the buffering extract. No particular intensity or…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Croft Vintage Port has a clear garnet core. The nose is ripe and attractive, but lacking the complexity of the 1977 Taylor’s: hints of cherry, brambly red-berried fruit, ginger and honey, though improving with time in glass as more blackberry leaf element begin to appear. The palate is sweet, ripe, very primordial considering…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Perarmando is gracious and intensely perfumed. Sweet dried cherry, cinnamon, mint, spice, tobacco and cedar give the Perarmando its distinctive aromatic profile. The tannins are a bit firm, but nothing a few years in bottle can't take care of. Perarmando is the new name for the estate's entry-level straight Barolo.

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2014 Insignia has turned out beautifully. Finely sculpted, nuanced and classic in structure, the 2014 is built on a core of energy and brightness. There is a level of purity and delineation in the flavors that is remarkable. Bright red cherry, lavender, rose petal and graphite add to the wine’s sculpted personality. The 2014…