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Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1978 Pichon-Lalande has always been one of the best of the decade. Vibrant and detailed on the nose, fresh as a daisy, hints of oyster shell with black fruit vie for attention. Cohesive and delineated, the aromatics here just exude classic Claret. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-boned tannins. For a 1978 Pauillac,…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is dense, ample and also ethereal, as only it can be. Once again, Romanée-Conti elicits thoughts of art forms like cubist paintings or jazz, where themes are implied but never expressly stated. Above all else Romanée-Conti is a Burgundy that engages all the senses. You want answers, but all you…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 8 at 35hl/ha and bottled April 25–26 . It has a quintessential Romanée-Conti bouquet of pure, seductive red fruit (morello cherry, cranberry, raspberry), extremely well defined and focused, plus subtle sea spray/seaweed aromas; with continued aeration, I noticed just a faint touch of curry leaf in…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of pineapple, candied lemon zest and wet stone accented by spearmint, eucalyptus, menthol and fresh herbs. Then obviously leaner than the 2012 but with surprising intensity and building creaminess of texture. Less exotic in the mid-palate than on the nose, with lemon zest, crushed stone and white flowers dominating. This is…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of pineapple, candied lemon zest and wet stone accented by spearmint, eucalyptus, menthol and fresh herbs. Then obviously leaner than the 2012 but with surprising intensity and building creaminess of texture. Less exotic in the mid-palate than on the nose, with lemon zest, crushed stone and white flowers dominating. This is…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; cropped at 27 hectoliters per hectare; ph 3.56; 14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Very cabernet franc- and limestone-driven on the nose, offering enticing scents of red berries, cocoa, spicy minerals and violet. Impressively intense flavors of red and dark berries are complicated by bitter…