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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Saturated ruby. Aromas of black fruits, gunflint, earth and minerals show a jammy, port-like ripeness. Fat, lush and broad but not yet filled in. As superripe and sweet as this is today in the middle palate, it turns distinctly austere and stony on the back end, showing its granitic origin. Finishes with extremely fine-grained tannins…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Medium ruby. Dense, powerful, imploded aromas of blackberry, creme de cassis, coffee liqueur, pipe tobacco and smoked meat. The texture of this wine is impossibly lush and velvety, and the superconcentrated, sweet essence-of-dark-berry flavors are also incredibly lively. Wonderfully sweet, lush and endless on the finish. You’d need a squeegee to remove this from your…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Pale color. Reticent but complex nose hints at honey, hay, smoke and mint. Dense but tight; not fleshy or round today but very nicely delineated. The Granits blanc is rounder and more open today but this is ripe, spicy and very long.

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Bright gold. Heady, mineral-powered citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complicated by jasmine, honey and iodine. Weighty and broad but showing unlikely vivacity to its ripe pear and orange flavors, which are sharpened by intense minerality. Delivers impressive clarity on the finish, which clings with outstanding tenacity and a suave floral quality.

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Dark red. Very ripe but somewhat stunted aromas of blackcurrant, plum, nuts and woodsmoke. Concentrated, ripe and full; very rich but rather uncompromisingly dry. The slightly roasted red fruit and nut flavors show more breadth than personality now, but this young Cote-Rotie is unusually fat and persistent, finishing with dusty, ripe tannins.

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Medium red. Smoky red fruits, graphite and pepper on the complex nose. Superripe, plump and sweet, with lovely balancing acidity for a wine this high in alcohol. This has real depth and chocolatey sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish builds slowly and lingers long. Distinctive, outstanding Chateauneuf du Pape.