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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright, full ruby. Brooding aromas of cassis, black cherry, minerals, bitter chocolate, shoe polish and violet; more Pauillac than Saint-Julien on the nose. Then rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume. As full and sweet as this is, there’s no impression of excess weight and the back end shows a distinctly austere quality,…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Clos du Mesnil captures all the pedigree of this epic Blanc des Blancs vintage. A soaring, majestic Champagne, the 2004 dazzles from the very first taste with its crystalline purity and brightness. In two tastings so far, the 2004 has been nothing less than a total showstopper. The vertical structure and pure, tightly-coiled…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(these vines now average about 17 years of age, according to director Brice de la Morandière, as a lot of replanting was done in 1998 and 1999, with the rest of the vines taken out in 2002 and replanted in 2004): Ripe aromas of yellow peach and hazelnut. Not particularly dense or deep but tactile…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Ornellaia Bianco is a very reserved wine. It does not appear to have the depth of some of its predecessors, but that is mostly attributable to a shift in picking earlier and using more large format oak. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint, sage and green pear lend energy to this taut, Bordeaux-inspired blend….

2019 Tuscany Preview (Mar 2022)

The 2019 Ornellaia Bianco is a very reserved wine. It does not appear to have the depth of some of its predecessors, but that is mostly attributable to a shift in picking earlier and using more large format oak. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint, sage and green pear lend energy to this taut, Bordeaux-inspired blend….

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

A remarkable wine for the year, the 2017 Opus One is a dense, full-throttle beauty. Plush fruit and soft, silky contours give the 2017 its racy personality. Exotic, beautifully perfumed and impeccable in its balance, Opus One is one of the most complete wines of the vintage. In 2017, Opus One has a distinctly red-toned…