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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1989 Petrus is consistent with previous bottles in the sense that it represents the apotheosis of not only the vineyard, but of Pomerol itself. It still provides that almost surreal cornucopia of aromas, red fruit melted with tar, tobacco, hints of camphor and ash, all delivered with astonishing precision. The palate is perfectly balanced,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Flamboyant aromas of red berry liqueur, earth, truffle and exotic woodsmoke. Hugely sweet and fat, with great ripeness and opulence and marvelous chewy depth. Finishes with huge but ripe tongue-dusting tannins and fabulous persistence. Drink 2005 to 2025.

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is just starting to drink well. Fresh and mineral, the 2011 also looks to have plenty of life ahead of it. Chalk, lemon confit and white flowers all grace this open-knit, curvy Charlemagne. The 2011 has really softened in recent years. Time in the glass brings out the layers in…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was served blind at a dinner in Bordeaux. This has always been a fine vintage from the estate, although it has lost a little vigor since my last encounter. The nose is quite strict, offering scents of lemon verbena, red apples and a touch of orange pith, and not as…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(from vines harvested between September 6 and 12): Pale silver-straw color. Enticing, pure aromas of lemon, white plum, wild herbs and menthol, lifted by a hawthorn topnote. Pliant, silky and fat but also fresh and precise, with complex, concentrated flavors of lemon, grapefruit pith, spices and powdered stone. Lovely classic vintage with texture, balance and…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia is an introvert at this stage. Medium in body, with terrific persistence and impeccable balance, the 2018 is not in any mood to show all its cards today. Hints of red berry fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing. I won’t be surprised to see it…