Archives: Product Reviews

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Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1988 La Conseillante displays a smudged, rustic bouquet laden with dusky, dark berried fruits, dried blood (rusty iron piping) and a touch of mocha. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, good structure with the Cabernet Franc defining the crisp finish with hints of allspice and sous-bois. Though not quite as smitten as…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Vivid ruby. Compelling aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri and blood orange, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and precise, offering palate-staining, deeply concentrated red fruit flavors that expand and gain spiciness with air. Finishes seamless and sweet, with intense lingering florality. Offers an impressive combination of depth and vivacity.

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Dark ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berry aromas and flavors are complemented by dried flowers, smoky herbs and licorice. Deep, rich and powerful but carrying no excess weight. Closes with strong punch and a persistent note of dark fruit liqueur. A deeper, more serious wine than the Croix de Bois but I prefer that wine’s…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Brilliant yellow. Intensely perfumed aromas of poached pear, orange, candied fig and jasmine take on a hint of dusty minerality. Smooth, concentrated and expansive on the palate, offering intense, mineral-tinged orchard and pit fruit flavors and a refreshing touch of bitter quinine. Finishes very long and supple, with impressive clarity and building spiciness.

2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)

Good full red. Very pure aromas of raspberry and rose petal. Dense and fat but juicy, with chewy flavors of red berries, spices and smoky minerals. Lovely complete wine, made from a clay-rich hillside site with rock less than a foot under the surface.

Santa Barbara: Better Than Ever (Sep 2017)

Another super-expressive wine in this range, the 2014 Pinot Noir Isabelle is rich, pliant and creamy. Red berry fruit, orange peel, mint and spice are all pushed forward. This is in an especially succulent, racy style, but there is good structure and tons of potential here. The wine needs time to develop the full breadth…