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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2003 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 15-25 September and matured in 90% new oak, has a ripe and opulent bouquet with lavish black fruit, fresh fig, dates and a touch of liquorice, though here is no sense of over-maturity here. It is fresher than a lot of ‘03s that I have recently tasted. The palate is well…

Interpreting Chenin Blanc (Mar 2021)

There are so many things to praise in the 2018 Clos du Papillon: the suave, sumptuous texture, the high level of concentration, the very ripe apple and pear fruit meeting subtle pastry notes. It’s seductive while offering some welcome grip on the finish, but it just trips at the last hurdle, the 14.5% alcohol giving…

Loire Chenin Blanc: Underrated No More (Jul 2020)

Light golden. High toned and bright, with a pretty complex nose of honeysuckle, tangerine, citrus blossom, and rosewater. The palate is full-bodied, with dense, ripe orchard and citrus fruit, notes of sea spray, salt and white pepper, leading to a finish laced with crushed shell and talc. Powerful and delightful.

Cellar Favorite: Jadot’s 2015 Beaune 1er Cru Celebration (Mar 2018)

The 2015 Beaune 1er Cru Celebration is a rich, radiant wine. Sumptuous and expansive on the palate, the 2015 possesses striking inner perfume and fabulous depth. The flavors are dark, bold and incisive in this decidedly potent, somber Beaune 1er Cru from Jadot. Even with all of its natural richness, the 2015 is massively tannic…

Tuscany: The Best of 2005 and 2006 (Jun 2008)

The 2005 Duemani (Cabernet Franc) is equally impressive. It reveals gorgeous, expressive varietal notes in its chocolate, wild herbs, dark cherries, licorice and sweet toasted oak. It is an intense, full-bodied wine, yet it offers superb harmony and well-integrated tannins to round out the finish. Duemani was fermented in oak vats and aged in French…

Sonoma’s Stellar 2016s (Apr 2018)

Kutch’s 2016 Pinot Noir Falstaff Vineyard is a powerful, almost virile wine in this vintage. Dried herbs, tobacco, earth, game and incense give the Falstaff a decidedly masculine, brooding personality. The 2016 is more about intensity than finesse. I imagine a certain rusticity will always linger here. All the elements have not fully come together…