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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Léoville Las Cases is one of the most brooding, potent wines of the year. When will it be ready? The answer is not yet. Although I have had other bottles that have been showier. Inky, powerful and potent, the 2005 is a real showstopper. If opened now, the 2005 needs a good 12…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2005 Léoville–Las Cases is a wine that needs more time. The nose remains broody compared to the 2007, but is an absolute joy, featuring brambly red fruit, tobacco, smoke, morels and light estuarine scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that have become more supple over the last couple of years. There is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Saturated ruby-red. A confiture of dark berries on the nose, with a complicating torrefaction note of coffee. Fat, sweet, plump and full, with a silky, enveloping texture rare for this wine in its youth. The highly concentrated cassis, violet and bitter chocolate flavors really take over the mouth and stay awhile. The huge, chocolatey finish…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(one-quarter each clairette, grenache blanc, bourboulenc and picpoul, raised in stainless steel): Bright gold. An expressive bouquet evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers and minerals. Racy and precise on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering juicy orange and pear flavors braced by a hint of lemon zest. Finishes with very good grip…

Oregon Pinot Noir: The Winning Streak Continues (Jul 2020)

Brilliant garnet. Spice-accented red and blue fruits, candied flowers and baking spices on the perfumed nose. A spine of juicy acidity supports spice-tinged black raspberry, bitter cherry and rose pastille flavors, and a minerally flourish emerges with air. Turns sweeter on the persistent finish, which is framed by fine-grained, slow-building tannins. 30% new oak.

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Diaphanous straw-yellow. Mineral-driven aromas of pear nectar, tangerine and yellow plum, plus a subtle touch of jasmine. Juicy and tightly focused in the mouth, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are underscored by suggestions of ginger and bitter quinine. The impressively long, penetrating finish shows lingering minerality and fine delineation.