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Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1982 Dom Pérignon Rosé is pretty, but it is also quite forward. Dried red cherries, crushed flowers and spices lift effortlessly from the glass. The 1982 still has good depth, but the flavor profile is now close to fully tertiary, so there is really nothing to be gained from further cellaring.

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

We started with a 2004 Salon. I have to admit that this bottle does not bowl me over. Steely and aloof, I find the aromatics “distant”. The palate is taut and malic, with just a hint of orange zest coming through with a sapid finish. Fine length, but I could not engage with this champagne,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2004 Salon (Edition 2019) is fabulous. That is hardly a surprise, as the 2004 has always been magnificent. Subtle, nuanced and classy to the core, the 2004 shows the more refined side of Salon. In that sense, it shares a good bit stylistically with both the 2007 and 2008, but much less so than…

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

We started with a 2004 Salon. I have to admit that this bottle does not bowl me over. Steely and aloof, I find the aromatics “distant”. The palate is taut and malic, with just a hint of orange zest coming through with a sapid finish. Fine length, but I could not engage with this champagne,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2004 Salon (Edition 2019) is fabulous. That is hardly a surprise, as the 2004 has always been magnificent. Subtle, nuanced and classy to the core, the 2004 shows the more refined side of Salon. In that sense, it shares a good bit stylistically with both the 2007 and 2008, but much less so than…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(100% sauvignon blanc; 25 hl/ha; 14% alcohol) Straw-green. Typical pure sauvignon nose of green fig, yellow melon and ripe gooseberry, nicely complemented by hints of chamomile and mint. The delicate fresh flavors echo the aromas in this subtle, aromatically complex white wine. The moderately concentrated but long finish offers a mineral element and a lingering…