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Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep purple-ruby. Initially muted on the nose, opening slowly to reveal hints of fresh blackcurrant and smoky sassafras. Then much sweeter and juicy in the mouth, with superripe blackberry, blueberry and mineral flavors. Finishes with sneaky concentration and good length, with youthfully aggressive tannins. I would have scored this even higher except for a nagging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand-Puy Ducasse shows a small reduction at first, a slightly metallic note that fortunately ebbs away to reveal pleasant baked cherries, tobacco and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that feels a little drier than its peers. Slightly rustic in style with a conservative finish. Expected more. Tasted blind…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet and 40% merlot): Full, deep red-ruby. Highly perfumed nose combines blackberry, licorice, menthol and medicinal herbs. Sweet, supple and fine-grained for a wine from this property, with strong primary dark berry and chocolate flavors complicated by nuances of herbs, tobacco leaf and leather. Plenty of supporting acidity to give clarity to the mid-palate….