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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Bright ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes red berry liqueur, candied cherry, coconut, potpourri, pipe tobacco and exotic spice aromas, all complemented by a smoky overtone. Alluringly sweet, broad and pliant on the palate, displaying a velvety texture to the plush raspberry, cherry cola, floral pastille and coconut flavors. Superb depth and no rough edges….

The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Bright ruby-red. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of candied cherry, vanilla, mocha, cured tobacco and spicecake, with a suave potpourri note becoming stronger in the glass. Offers sweet, penetrating cherry-cola and lavender pastille flavors complicated by hints of smoky minerals and candied licorice. The long, subtly tannic finish delivers noteworthy energy and focus, leaving suave spicecake…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, plum, minerals, graphite, and sexy, coconutty oak; showed a floral note with aeration. Extremely suave, fine-grained and concentrated, with a strong spine of acidity. Finishes firmly tannic, subtle and very long. This should develop slowly.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Whereas the 1989 Mouton-Rothschild opened at 67 Pall Mall failed to pass muster, this bottle tasted four months later was outstanding, many voting it the standout wine of the 1989 dinner. It has a quintessential Pauillac nose that gains more and more complexity with aeration: blackberry, pencil shavings, and freshly rolled tobacco, all wrapped up…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Mouton-Rothschild can be variable from bottle to bottle. This example has an odd nose with a dab of wild mint. It just lacks a bit of class and feels clammed shut most of the time. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly chewy and has darker fruit compared directly with the 1989 Lafite-Rothschild. It coheres…