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Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Certan de May has come together nicely. It remains a powerful, perhaps even monolithic, Pomerol, and yet it offers very good balance. A blast of black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, licorice and incense announces this decidedly brooding Pomerol. There’s certainly plenty of depth and big tannins to match. The substantial finish is impressive….

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

I expressed strong reservations towards the 2020 Certan de May in barrel, and sad to say, there is no reason to alter my view from bottle. For a start, the nose feels very herbaceous and lacks the complexity of the preceding Hosanna. Despite rigorous coaxing, it just doesn’t click into gear. The palate shows marginal…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Certan de May is a powerful, imposing Pomerol. Swaths of tannin enshroud the palate. Blue/purplish fruit, grilled herbs, gravel, chocolate and leather add to a feeling of gravitas. The 2020 has plenty of depth, and yet it feels rather monolithic. There is no flow here, the wine feels static.

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Bourgneuf is another terrific wine from the Vayron family. Rich and quite deep, Bourgneuf is a heady Pomerol in 2020, but never abandons its essential classicism. Sumptuous dark-fleshed fruit, spice, chocolate and dried flowers are all dialed up. Readers who have known Bourgneuf for years may find the 2020 a bit over the…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Bourgneuf has closed up a little on the nose post-bottling: blackberry, graphite, subtle loamy aromas and just a whiff of sea spray. Fine delineation and commendable complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured and perhaps more “serious” than its showing from barrel. Generous helpings of cracked black pepper enliven the second half, firm…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

Bourgneuf has been on a roll for a number of vintages. The 2020 is another terrific showing from the Vayron family. A spine of fine tannins gives the 2020 its drive and overall sense of proportion. Black cherry, grilled herbs, menthol, licorice, chocolate and spice all open in the glass. The 2020 is a serious,…