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Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

Pol Roger’s 2002 Brut Extra Cuvee de Reserve is rich, creamy and seductive. An expressive, layered wine, the 2002 impresses for its overall harmony and balance. Light floral honey, mint, tangerine, cinnamon and dried pears are all woven together in this gracious, impeccable Champagne. This is a fairly reserve style for the year, but it…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

White flowers, lemon, slate and chamomile are some of the notes that burst from the glass in Pol Roger’s 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Extra Cuvee de Reserve. A bright, tightly coiled wine, the 2002 comes across as quite fresh and vibrant, especially within the context of the year. Sweet floral and minty notes run…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

(60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay; L21932009): Light gold. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of citrus fruits, quince and white flowers, along with subtle sea salt and iodine nuances and slow-building toastiness. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering assertive Meyer lemon and pear flavors and complicating notes of anise and ginger. I’d have guessed that there was more…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2000 Lafleur is a monumental Pomerol that I have been fortunate to taste almost a dozen times over the years. Now reaching adulthood, it has a deep colour with very little maturity showing on the rim. The bouquet is quite profound, if still a little broody and backward, adorned with captivating scents of blackberry,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Huge, superripe, rather sauvage nose combines roasted berries, grilled meat, roasted nuts, tar and tobacco; showing some distinctly uncivilized notes of great Lafleur vintages of the past. A huge wine with impressive fat and volume. Classic superrich Lafleur notes of cherry liqueur, game, truffle and burning tobacco. A bit disjointed on the back…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright full red. Aromas of black fruits, violet, crushed rock, licorice and dark spices suggest a muscular wine. Then densely packed, classically dry and intense, with the purple fruit, mineral, violet and mint flavors complicated by soil-driven salinity. Finishes tactile and very long but youthfully backward.