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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(Jadot made two barrels of this wine, vs. a normal six; the vines are situated high on the slope, not far from Jadot’s Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles): Very pure but subdued aromas of apple and spices. Concentrated and sappy on the palate, conveying an enticing touch of oaky sweetness to its flavors of white peach, spiced…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2003 Lafleur now sports a slightly muted, rather one-dimensional bouquet, that on this occasion is shown up by the superior and more vigorous 2001 Lafleur. Dark berry fruit, hints of cola intermingle with sandalwood and sage on the nose. The palate is full-bodied for this Pomerol with supple tannin, quite grippy in the mouth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Full ruby-red color. Ripe, smoky aromas of raspberry, plum, milk chocolate and spices; almost confectionery. Plump, round and impressively full, with slightly medicinal flavors. Tasted after the Trotanoy, this came off as less harmonious and vibrant, but fatter and fuller in the middle palate. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and very good chocolatey persistence. Some…