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The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 2013 d’Issan has an agreeable bouquet that is not nearly as sophisticated as the 2012, but it seems refined with touches of leather and tertiary black fruit. All it lacks is the energy of previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, clearly no sign of any greenness or herbaceous notes. My respectable…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Issan is a fruity, straightforward wine built for near-term drinking. Crushed flowers, sweet red cherries, tobacco and anise linger on a finish marked by elements of dryness.

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Clinet is a vintage that I have never warmed to ever since I first tasted it from barrel. Bottles have since vindicated my tepid reception. It doesn’t quite click into fifth gear on the nose. It’s a bit austere, and I still believe there’s just a touch of Brettanomyces. Perhaps that is subduing…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Clinet is a wine that left me perplexed when I tasted it multiple times both from barrel and in bottle. The litmus test is how it shows blind… Here it has a lifted bouquet with truffle and smoke-infused red fruit, a subtle hickory note coming through with aeration. One or two attendees at…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Clinet is powerful, deep and enveloping. Black cherry, smoke, graphite, chocolate and French oak give the wine its intensity and gravitas. Hints of lavender and violet develop in the glass, adding lovely aromatic nuance, but the 2014 remains a big, imposing wine in need of cellaring. This is impressive juice. Tasted two times.

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched dark fruit preserve, violet and licorice scents are accompanied by suggestions of smoky bacon and vanilla. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering pliant cassis, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that turn spicier with aeration. In a ripe, generous style, showing solid, spicy thrust on a long, smooth finish framed by velvety…