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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Exotic aromas of cassis, meat and smoke, plus a whiff of funky wood. Then remarkably sweet, lush and suave, with a flavor of raw berries. Pure Margaux silkiness allied to firm structure. Finishes very long, with rich, sweet tannins. Remarkable wine, particularly considering that the bottle was not perfect. Pristine bottles of this…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a reserved, backward bouquet that feels a little sultry after the more expressive Charlemagne. The palate is better, though, offering white peach and mango notes. A more tropical-tinged Bâtard-Montrachet but counterbalanced by the acidity. A touch of spice emerges toward the finish.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is disturbingly deep in hue. It has an odd nose that lacks mineralité, tropical over-ripe fruit, rather peachy and with some reduction. The palate is very oaky and weighty. A dense and burly Bâtard-Montrachet that does need some grace and poise on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018…

1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

Tasted three times over the years, the 1971 Haut-Brion has held up reasonably well, given that it was never a great vintage in Pessac Léognan. Modest black fruit is laced with iron filings, though it is dusty and lacks the cohesion of modern-day examples. The palate is medium-bodied and relatively light, subtle hickory and sage…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Ruby-red. Floral, cedary aromas of blackcurrant and licorice. Concentrated but quite pliant in the middle palate. Ripe tannins nicely supported by fruit extract.