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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good full red-ruby. Complex nose combines plum, mocha, minerals, tobacco and burnished oak. A bit tight on entry, then expands and explodes toward the back, showing dense, insinuating flavors of black fruits and licorice. Chewy, sharply delineated Pichon-Baron with excellent underlying backbone and broad, palate-coating tannins. An outstanding vintage for this estate.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright medium red. Cherry and blood orange on the nose, along with a strong oaky veneer. Brisk red fruit flavors are complicated by mineral and herb nuances, with the strong oakiness carrying through in the mouth. I marked this down for its curious finish, which showed some drying tannins and a weird juxtaposition of nutskin…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(there’s just a one-year-old piece and a new feuillette of this juice): Pale, bright yellow. Aromas and flavors of pear, mirabelle and stone. Has the power and structure of a red wine, showing outstanding intensity and thrust as well as an exhilarating sugar/acid balance. Really rises and resounds on the rather tannic finish.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(just 1-1/2 barrels produced; I tasted from a new barrique): Aromas of pineapple, smoky oak, clove and iodine. Powerfully structured grand cru with terrific acid cut and tannic spine to support its citrus and stone fruit flavors. Finishes tactile, saline and very long.