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Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, shimmering ruby. Expansive, mineral- and spice-accented red and dark berry preserve, incense, cola and garrigue qualities on the finely detailed nose. Palate-staining cherry pie, raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and fruitcake flavors show uncanny energy for their depth. The spice and floral notes dominate a seriously long, sappy finish framed by velvety, well-knit tannins.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 La Fleur-Pétrus is more youthful than the 1999 Hosanna in appearance. The bouquet is decent enough, featuring soy-tinged red fruit, but overall it is missing some vigor and definition, and it certainly pales against the juxtaposed 2016. The palate is better, slightly bitter in the mouth with light rustic tannin and notes of…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Cool, perfumed aromas of sappy cherry, licorice and mint; distinctly Burgundian in a laid-back way. Penetrating, cool and intensely flavored; bright and delineated, with firm minerality and sound acidity contributing to the impression of structure. Finishes with spreading tannins and sneaky length. Very successful for the year.

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Bright ruby. A room-filling bouquet suggests dark berries, kirsch, anise, pungent herbs and fresh violet. Thick and sweet, with luscious blackberry and cherry flavors, supple tannins and terrific finishing thrust. Really refuses to let go of the palate. Impressive for its elegance and power; my sample last year was clearly compromised.

Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020 (Nov 2021)

Coming from a selection of the oldest vines planted before the war and a selection of approximately 10 barrels, the 2019 Hommage à Léonard Chandon is very succinct on the nose with beautifully defined citrus peel, orange zest and light fumé notes. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, the new…