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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Le Pin is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade or so. It has an exotic bouquet of vivacious red fruit, kirsch, black truffle, rose petals and orange blossoms. It just feels a little smudged against the 2001. The medium-bodied palate delivers sweet, ripe tannins, fleshy, orange-peel-infused red fruit, a…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

(tasted from cuve, on its finings) Good medium ruby. Superripe, liqueur-like aromas of exotic framboise and kirsch Rich and concentrated, with very sweet fruit flavors complemented by a torrefaction note of coffee. Very hard to assess accurately today but appears to be riper and denser than the 2001. Judgment deferred.

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again, Part 2 (Sep 2014)

The 2010 Barolo Francia is an exotic, beguiling beauty. Lavender, sage, menthol, tobacco and dried rose petals are some of the notes that open up in the glass. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2010 is utterly captivating. The combination of super-expressive aromatics, pliant fruit and pulsating tannins is something to behold. It will be…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Wild strawberry, smoked meat and a whiff of leather on the nose. Lush on entry, then juicy, tight and youthfully imploded in the middle, with firm minerality supporting the sappy raspberry and crushed cherry flavors. Showing less middle-palate texture today than the Cerretta, almost certainly due to a recent racking and sulfiting….

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1989 Petrus is consistent with previous bottles in the sense that it represents the apotheosis of not only the vineyard, but of Pomerol itself. It still provides that almost surreal cornucopia of aromas, red fruit melted with tar, tobacco, hints of camphor and ash, all delivered with astonishing precision. The palate is perfectly balanced,…