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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep purple-ruby. Initially muted on the nose, opening slowly to reveal hints of fresh blackcurrant and smoky sassafras. Then much sweeter and juicy in the mouth, with superripe blackberry, blueberry and mineral flavors. Finishes with sneaky concentration and good length, with youthfully aggressive tannins. I would have scored this even higher except for a nagging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand-Puy Ducasse shows a small reduction at first, a slightly metallic note that fortunately ebbs away to reveal pleasant baked cherries, tobacco and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that feels a little drier than its peers. Slightly rustic in style with a conservative finish. Expected more. Tasted blind…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet and 40% merlot): Full, deep red-ruby. Highly perfumed nose combines blackberry, licorice, menthol and medicinal herbs. Sweet, supple and fine-grained for a wine from this property, with strong primary dark berry and chocolate flavors complicated by nuances of herbs, tobacco leaf and leather. Plenty of supporting acidity to give clarity to the mid-palate….

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1986 Haut-Brion, served blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux, comes from an ex-château bottle. I must admit that I spent a few moments marveling at the bouquet. It’s intense and Margaux-like, perhaps more like a 1985 in style with precocious red fruit, cedar, kirsch and veins of cassis. It blossoms in the glass,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Ripe, juicy and fresh, with lovely violet lift to the dark berry flavors. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering black fruit flavors. Not the last word in complexity but unusually rich and floral in 2005. Wait until 2012.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…