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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a pixelated bouquet with that mélange of red and black fruit that I noticed before. It’s perfumed with hints of potpourri and lovely sous-bois/mossy scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, with a little crunch on the entry. It’s a more structured Champans than I am…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is another to add to the canon of outstanding wines from this monopole. It has retained the bouquet with mineral-laden dark berry fruit, perhaps less tea-leaf scents and more of the forest floor. Very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, a little more grip…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a focused, uncompromising bouquet with a strong marine influence: touches of oyster shell and a hint of orange blossom. The palate is very well-balanced with a twist of sour lemon. There’s very good depth – it’s sapid and quite bold towards the finish. This is a Bienvenue with driving…

A Burgundy Intermezzo (Jul 2024)

The 2022 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a captivating sea cave and oyster shell-scented nose that is so different from the Puligny Premier Crus. The palate is slightly reductive but in a positive way, imparting a light bitterness and tension. There’s tremendous weight on the finish, but it retains linearity and focus. This is another of…

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a more backward bouquet with touches of petrichor and green apple unfolding in the glass, quite strict compared to the other cuvées. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. There is a touch of reduction at the moment, but it is simpatico with the…

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a little more intensity on the nose than the Bienvenue with touches of struck flint, cold stone and light Granny Smith scents that are tightly coiled and unfold with aeration. The palate is crisp and taut, much more mineral-driven than the Bienvenue with a really complex and persistent finish…