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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2009 Lynch-Bages is very well defined on the nose, yet powerful with ample fruit to spare: blackberry, wild strawberry, cranberry mixed with cedar and a light mint touch. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and lightly spiced with superb focus. It exerts a gentle grip from start to…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering…

South Africa: 2021 New Releases from the Cape (Nov 2021)

The 2018 Vin de Constance was picked over 60 days, the second most prolonged picking since the maiden 1986 vintage. It was lightly pressed into 500-liter barrels for alcoholic fermentation, which can take up to six months, then matured on the gross lees in 60% new oak and acacia barrels. This vintage contains 172g/L residual…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2008 Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Speciale is a blend of fruit from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize and Cramant. Deep, resonant and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2008 is super-impressive. I especially admire the way the wine fleshes out with a bit of air. Citrus, sage, menthol and dried flowers add nuance to what…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pichon-Lalande has a rather musky bouquet at first, juniper and mint infusing the black fruit, not quite translating the essence of Pauillac as well as others, though still attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and silky smooth. There is a veneer of high quality oak here, quite plush on the…