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2014 Brunello di Montalcino and 2013 Riservas (March 2019)

Luminous bright pale red. The inviting nose offers redcurrant, sour red cherry, licorice, flint and violet aromas. Then slightly richer and riper than the flinty-floral nose suggests, with musky flavors of red fruit and sweet spices complicated by hints of loam. Closes long, musky and smooth.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Montrose can flirt with perfection when it wants to. This bottle, poured blind, is not the best example I have tasted, partly because it displays just a soupcon of Brettanomyces on the nose. The aromatics have a lovely warmth, with blackberries, rosemary and pencil shavings. However, because of the Brett, I feel that…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno is a powerful, muscular wine, and yet it also has a sense of translucence that is hugely appealing. Iron, smoke, blood, leather, tobacco and incense give the San Lorenzo a distinctly feral, wild quality. I expect the 2015 will always remain a bit rustic in feel, but it…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay "Vendage Sélectionée" is a selection from four parcels below Echards, Pluchots, Jeotte and Grand Champs that is matured in a little new oak. It has a high-toned bouquet of blueberry and raspberry fruit, and little cassis emerges with time in the glass. The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry and…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Givry Crausot 1er Cru Blanc is quite backward on the nose despite encouragement. C’mon – give me more! The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, just a hint of orange peel and sour lemon complementing the citrus fruit, and the finish is nicely defined and persistent. Give this a couple…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas has a lovely red cherry, strawberry and rose petal scented bouquet that displays plenty of vigour with well integrated oak. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a little low in acidity but very pure with a caressing and quite persistent finish. This shows off the vineyard in a…