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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is a counterpart to the domaine’s own Lavaux (under the Denis Mortet label) as part of Arnaud Mortet’s own negoçe vineyards. It matures in 75% new oak and unlike the Denis Mortet Lavaux, this includes 30 to 40% whole bunches. It has a fresh and well defined bouquet…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru matures in 75% new oak and 100% de-stemmed. It has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry and rose petals that unfurls beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannins, extremely detailed, not long in the mouth with surfeit freshness and tension, and a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark red-ruby. Distinctly wild aromas of black raspberry, crushed rock, bitter chocolate, cocoa powder and leather lifted by a spicy element. Extremely unevolved following a very late malo but already wonderfully sweet, concentrated and creamy, conveying almost painful density to its black fruit flavors. Firms up dramatically on the rocky, mineral-driven back end. Almost tough…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

From magnum, the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is perfumed on the nose, yet subtle, not disguising that it comes from a cooler growing season. Sous-bois and tobacco notes merge with dark berry fruit. Maybe it needs a little more opulence? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s mid-weight for a Grand Cru. The 2014…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

From magnum, the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is perfumed on the nose, yet subtle, not disguising that it comes from a cooler growing season. Sous-bois and tobacco notes merge with dark berry fruits. Maybe it needs a little more opulence? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This is mid-weight for a Grand Cru. It…