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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Les Forts de Latour is one of many that I had not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old, it has a lovely, almost melted bouquet of black fruit laced with tar, cedar and pine, rose petal, occupying that liminal point between primary and secondary stages. The well-balanced palate offers a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Bright gold with a strong mousse. Deep, complex displays smoky apple, peach pit, buttered toast and vanilla bean scents. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors are complemented by baking spices, floral honey and a hint of candied ginger. Deep, creamy, powerful and focused, with very good finishing lift and a lingering note of bitter pear skin. This…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or…

Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just…