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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Sassicaia is one of the most powerful, imposing young Sassicaias I can remember tasting. Explosive and vibrant with stunning depth, the 2016 possesses off-the-charts aromatic intensity, richness and structure, all in a mid-weight style that is so distinctive. Plum, lavender, rose petal, spice and mint all build into the explosive, deep finish in…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…